THE JEWELRY COUNSELOR ARCHIVE  back GEMS FROM THE JEWELRY COUNSELOR Vol. 2, No. 6 October/November 2005 Creating a Gracious Image Graciousness is about charm and good taste. It is the conveyance of a sense of genuineness, respect for others, and beauty that comes from one’s core. Can graciousness be conveyed through fashion? I think it can. Fashion can be fun, no doubt, and much of fashion is purely fad. What’s the latest trend, we want to know. We study how the stylists garb the celebrities and we want to look just like them. Some magazines give us pages upon pages of identical outfits – wear this style top, this style skirt and this style shoes and you’ll look fashionable, they proclaim. Here’s how to copy Celebrity X’s latest look on a budget, they show us. What’s truly gracious, however, is understanding that not everyone has the body type, or the hair texture, or the bone structure to wear what Celebrity X is wearing. What’s especially gracious is when we can skip a fad because we know it doesn’t suit us. And when we find a style that somehow makes us walk taller, smile more, or feel truly lovely, then we have found something that suits us to our core. The result is charm and good taste – those qualities that encompass graciousness. If you choose to embrace any of this autumn’s major trends, be sure to note the details that make the difference between a display of half-hearted efforts and out-and-out charm. Heavier fabrics and woven textures call for more substantial jewelry. The delicate chains and tiny earrings that looked fresh for summer are overwhelmed by the fall styles. Here are some of the biggest trends: Opulence and Russian folklore-inspired looks. This perennial style calls for beads around the neck and bracelets at the wrist. Think huge stones or multiples of necklaces and bracelets to carry out the sense of opulence. Jewels and beads look best in rich, deep colors, and yellow gold generally suits the mood better than cool white metals like platinum and sterling silver. Amber and deep-colored coral are traditional Russian/Eastern European choices for beads. Tassels provide an interesting design detail. Clothing designs that place layers of detail around the face and shoulders call for restraint in the choice of earrings. Skip anything that dangles and can get caught in your collars and scarves. Wear earrings that sit on your earlobes, or leave the earrings off entirely. The Femme Fatale/Hitchcock Woman. Think film noir and mysteries, women with smoky voices and waves in their hair. This look is streamlined and elegant, poised and finished. Jewelry choices should be understated and classic, such as pearls worn at choker length or at the base of the throat. Brooches are a classic choice to complement the clothing, as they add a jaunty touch but stay where you place them and don’t add a sense of unwanted movement. Again here, dangling earrings have no place. Wear stud earrings or larger ear clips that sit on the ear. Menswear. Oversize watches are a key style-maker to classic menswear looks. Also look for chunky men’s style bracelets in silver or gold. Necklaces should be short and simple in design and should just peek out between the collar of your shirt. Stud diamond, rhinestone or pearl earrings complete this look without competing with the lines of the apparel. Black. Black is never truly out of style, but this fall it returns in full force with a bit of Gothic influence. Black beads and stones in jewelry complement this look, and white metals such as platinum and sterling silver are often the accompanying base. If you have warmer skin tones, consider yellow gold rather than white metals for a little bit more kick. Jewelry needs presence to work with all the black, so don’t be afraid to go a little bit larger in the pieces you wear to balance those belts, corsets and chunky boots. Romance. With or without the Russian influence, high-necked blouses with ruffles, lace and self-ties are causing hearts to flutter once again. Some have the dangling cuffs of poets’ shirts. With all that ornamentation at the cuffs, bracelets should be foregone in lieu of large statement rings. Long necklaces should be fairly delicate and can be worn in multiples. A necklace that is too chunky will clash with the gentle romantic design of the blouse. Dangling earrings can be brought into play, but be sure that they complement and don’t distract from the blouse. There are plenty of other choices, some lovely, some not so great. Be cautious of some of the emphasis on layering clashing textures. Layering adds bulk so use this technique judiciously. The ‘70s collegiate look trotted out by some magazines can look very easily like thrift store mistakes. The military look, which also had a resurgence in the ‘70s, is back again in coats and jackets featuring brass buttons. This autumn, as ever, fashion gives us some delicious choices as to how to present ourselves to the world, and some of these trends may speak to you. If any of them do, great! If not, either ignore them or adapt them to your own personal style. And then, be sure to be gracious when you find that others are admiring and copying you.   GEMS FROM THE JEWELRY COUNSELOR August/September 2005   Seven tips for finding the potential in your wardrobe - and in yourself!   I’ve always found fall fashions the most exciting of the year. Living in Chicago for over thirty years, I would eagerly tear into the massive August issue of Vogue each July and study it like a textbook to help me deal with the prospect of dressing for the cold months of autumn and winter ahead. I learned early to layer the rich colors and textures of the season and to personalize my style with accessories. The early reports for fall/winter 2005 show the kind of beautiful fashions that makes me wish that all designers would appreciate how much of the American women’s clothing market they are missing by persisting in directing their efforts on the small end of misses’ sizes. Happily, there are a few designers who know how to adapt current styles to flatter curvier women. Even better, many of the accessories that define the season are of a size and scale that work beautifully for the plus-size market. As you strategize your fall/winter wardrobe, here are seven tips to help you find the potential in your clothing.   Tip #1: Shop in your own closet. After you’ve had an opportunity to peruse several of the July and August fashion magazines to see what is currently stylish, and before you set foot in a store or start clicking away on-line, go shopping in your own closet. Pull out all the items that have potential for the season, including shoes, handbags, scarves and jewelry. Critically evaluate each item for fit and condition. If an item’s condition is poor, it’s time for a replacement. Start a pile of discards and a wish list of items you would like to fill in the gaps in your wardrobe. If the condition of an item is good but it doesn’t fit properly, some additional considerations are necessary. Don’t keep wearing that item as is – you’re never going to feel truly comfortable in it, so it will not allow you to feel and be your best, reaching your full potential. Instead, take the following two steps before you decide to eliminate that item from your wardrobe:   Tip #2: Get to know a good tailor. If a garment is the right size but its fit isn’t great, take it to a tailor for alterations. A good tailor can help you find the potential in your clothing. Simple alterations like lowering a high neckline, adding darts to a bodice that bunches at the sides of the chest, lowering the front portion of the waistband in pants, or putting slits into the sides of a top to release the pull across the hips can transform a garment into a comfortable item that flatters. Learn which alterations are typically necessary to make things fit your body (for me, with sleeves, the mantra is “shorten and taper”), and which items can’t be altered or would require major overhauls that are not cost-efficient. This information is invaluable as you shop, because you’ll be able to spot the potential the items that don’t fit perfectly off the rack. Having things altered is not a sign that there is anything wrong with your body – it means only that the garment was not specifically designed for the body you have. Money spent on alterations is money well spent. Add garments to the list of discards if alterations cannot salvage them by making them fit you properly. Tip #3: Ignore the advice that tells you to get rid of clothing that doesn’t fit you now only because your weight has changed. If your weight goes up and down from time to time, IGNORE that bad advice about getting rid of clothing that doesn’t fit. It doesn’t make sense to alter or throw out good clothing that fits you beautifully when you are at a different weight, just because it doesn’t fit you now. For those of us without unlimited clothing budgets, clothing is too expensive to allow for such cavalier behavior. If a garment has become too big or too small, retire it for the time being. Optimally, store different size ranges in separate closets so that what you view as your active wardrobe is ONLY those items that really work for you right now. Since sizes are oftentimes meaningless, find your own code for the size ranges that are too big, too small and just right. In deciding what to store, discard anything that is not in impeccable condition. Tip #4: Shuffle the pieces. Once you’ve tweaked your wardrobe with alterations and weeded out all the items that don’t fit you at your current weight, as well as anything that is worn out and ready to be eliminated from your wardrobe permanently, take a good look at what is left. Chances are, it’s a smaller number of garments and almost all of your accessories. Have some fun with the pieces that are left. Using the current fashion magazines for inspiration, break up matched sets and try different combinations. Don’t forget to include dresses and sweaters in the mix. Add different styles of shoes, handbags and jewelry to expand the range of possible looks from the same basic pieces. Take notes, listing all the pieces including accessories that comprise an ensemble you like. If possible, document the ensembles with photographs. Take notes of items that will complete certain looks – perhaps a certain color sweater, a certain style necklace, or updated shoes – and add these items to your wish list. Tip #5: Shop with your wish list in hand. Now that you’ve discovered the full potential of the clothing and accessories already in your closet, chances are you need less than you might have thought. Take what you’ve learned about what can be altered, and choose your new acquisitions carefully so that they truly work for you. If you’ve had your colors done by an image consultant, using your personal color palette will make the selection process even easier. By understanding the lines of your body, you’ll be able to shop more efficiently. Tip #6: Utilize the power of accessories. The easiest and most easily recognizable wardrobe updates are accomplished with accessories. New shoes and handbags in current styles can update most everything else in your closet. Well-chosen accessories can be some of the best-spent wardrobe dollars for the curvy woman. Brooches and earrings don’t care what size you are. Hats, scarves, rings, necklaces and bracelets found in appropriate sizes will give you a wealth of options for jazzing up your wardrobe. In jewelry, here are some of the hottest trends for fall and winter:   · Multiple necklaces. A great look for most curvy women. Be sure that the various necklaces have some relation to your garments and to each other in design. Avoid a messy tangle – it’s best if each necklace fits completely inside the next larger one. Extra long necklaces work best if you have a relatively small chest or if your breasts are fairly wide-set. It is not attractive to have a necklace swing off the shelf of a bosom or hook around a breast.   · Multiple bracelets. The lavish look continues on the arms. Mix bangles and link bracelets of various widths and textures. If you get too carried away, however, you may lose sight of the curve of your arm and it can look shorter and wider than it is. If you have extremely long arms, however, multiple bracelets can make your arms appear more in proportion to your body. Evaluate the look of bracelets in a full-length mirror. Strong bracelets on both wrists can add a horizontal line at the line of the thighs, which may not be a desired effect. Also be cautious about the noise factor with jangling bracelets if you work in an environment where your colleagues won’t want to hear you approaching. · Brooches. The versatility of brooches keeps them on the hot list. Use them creatively and in multiples for maximum impact. Pin them anywhere you’d like extra impact, including the neck of a turtleneck, a purse or a hat. Tip #7: Let your personality show. Now that you’ve organized your wardrobe and begun the fun of finding the perfect pieces to complete it, allow yourself to gravitate to the colors and textures that speak to you and delight you. Enjoy a brooch that serves as a conversation piece; a soft, touchable sweater; a hat that confidently displays attitude. The way you dress speaks volumes. When your wardrobe is operating at full potential and you know you look good, you’re ready to show the world your true potential       GEMS FROM THE JEWELRY COUNSELOR   June/July 2005     How to use  the latest trends to reveal the real you   With warmer weather upon us, once again the fashion industry has produced a bumper crop of fashions to adorn and delight us.  Florals and global influences, worn either from head to toe or in carefully edited accessories, done right, can give us a fashion-forward edge.  Done poorly, we become fashion victims.   How we dress strongly influences the impression we make on others.  People draw conclusions about others in mere seconds, before even a word is spoken.   Through the way we dress and adorn ourselves, we reveal our true selves to the world.    Some of us have adopted signature looks, instantly recognizable, like a certain hairstyle, a color of lipstick, bright-framed glasses or eye-catching hats, “message” brooches (think former Secretary of State Madeleine Albright) or jangling charm bracelets.   Or we may have adopted signature colors (think Elle Woods from “Legally Blonde” and the color pink).  All of these choices reveal a certain confidence that transcends the offerings of current fashion.   For many of us, part of what we want to reveal to the world is our fashion savvy.  For us, staying current in trends is an essential part of our personal image. Truly staying au courant requires that we be closely attentive not only to what the new trends are, but also to what makes each of them work.    For example, InStyle magazine interprets a key current silhouette as volume without bulk, with fabrics such as chiffon, organza, gazar, tulle and lace.  But these clothes are not shapeless. “Structure, through draping, belting or corseting, allows one to appear to glide on a cloud rather than appear airborne.  So, no-no to a muumuu.  For those who are older, structure should corset the upper torso.  Resist the billowing sleeves and go for a goddesslike skirt or train. . . .”  In Bazaar magazine, Suzy Menkes urges:  “Before you step into spring’s full skirts, baggy pants and billowy blouses, you need to master the season’s proportions.  When in doubt, whittle your waist . . . .”  Oscar de la Renta is quoted as saying that one of the rules for making volume work is that “the silhouette should always be kept slender between waist and hips.”  Slender between waist and hips?  This is not a style for someone with womanly curves!  Does this mean that a full-figured woman needs to sidestep the volume trend entirely?    One interpretation of this trend toward volume without bulk that works well on many full-figured women is an empire-style dress, which skims over the waist and hips. Queen Latifah is often photographed in this style, looking beautiful.  Tunics can also be flattering, especially for those without a defined waist.  Draped necklines can be exceptionally lovely on almost everyone and keep the eye focused up toward the face.  Approach with caution the voluminous hippie-bohemian skirts, big floral prints and shiny materials that draw the eye to places you’d rather not highlight.      What this focus on structure and silhouette means is that, if current styles dictate that balancing a tiered peasant skirt calls for a skinny top, but you have an ample bosom and no waist, stay clear of that look.  It won’t work on your body.  And that’s perfectly alright!  Don’t wear styles that are unflattering. You can still reveal to the world your fashion savvy.   What you can do, and do exceptionally well, is catch the current trends in smaller doses.  The key, of course, is accessories.  As More magazine notes, if the head-to-toe look is too much, wear one embellished piece to give your basics a kick. Combine textures. And have fun with fashion!   Wedge shoes are big again.  If you can take the heel height, enjoy them.  They range in height from small wedges to sky-high.  They’re not dressy enough for business wear, but they look great with casual clothes.  For a more elegant look, snakeskin bags and shoes are once again at the forefront of chic fashion.  For fun, consider textured pastel metallics.    Big slouchy bags are part of the bohemian look, but choose these judiciously, so your look doesn’t trend toward sloppiness.  As noted by Vogue magazine’s style guru, Mrs. Exeter, in her March 2005 column, directed particularly toward women of a certain age, “I don’t like anything that droops, and global looks tend to droop.  I don’t even like chandelier earrings.  I don’t care how much something sparkles; if it droops, then any dazzling effects are mitigated as admiring eyes are drawn downward.  . . . Droop is gravity’s relentless ex-husband, so beware.  Always stick with clothing and accessories that lift the eye up, not down.”  This is advice worth keeping in mind, whatever your age.   There are two key trends in jewelry for summer 2005, both of which can be delightful on the full-figured woman because they both involve volume.    The first big trend is bangles, worn in multiples.  People magazine calls bangles “the trend of the season.”  Plastic and wooden bangles are hot, right along the genuine fine jewelry versions studded with gemstones!  Mix them up, and come up with your own eye-pleasing combinations.  Wear two or three – okay, maybe four or five or more – and  keep an eye out for hinged or open back bangles for comfort and ease of wear.    Don’t assume that you need wide cuff-like bangles if you’re full-figured.  Look to the size of your facial features for a clue as to the optimal width of the bracelets.  If you have large eyes or a large nose or mouth, wider bracelets will suit you.  If your features are delicate, choose narrower bracelets, but don’t hesitate to pile them on.    Be sure to try on a bangle bracelet before purchase.  Many of them are small, and it’s  horrid to be scraping your hand as you try to free yourself from a bracelet that doesn’t want to come off.  Also give your arm a bit of open space, or you risk the look of a “sausage” or “cankles” effect when you completely hide the beautiful curves of the lower arm and wrist.    The second big trend in jewelry for summer 2005 is beaded necklaces, worn in multiples.  What fun that these are back in style in a big way!  Combining colors and textures is a fun way to add some pizzazz to your basic wardrobe.  Check antique shops and eBay for inexpensive additions to your collection and experiment with different combinations.  If you do want to play with combinations (and who can resist?), seek to include some unifying elements.  The elements can be:   one or two common colors, materials (pearls or plastics; white metal or yellow), the same intensity of colors (for example, all pastels or all deep colors), or the same scale of elements.    By “scale of elements” I’m referring to the scale of the detail of the jewelry.  As a general rule, if you combine a big chunky set of beads with a fragile chain and filigree pendant, the latter will be overwhelmed by the beads.  Wear necklaces that work together to give your ensemble cohesiveness and balance.   Above all, never adopt a trend just because it’s trendy.  I was delighted to see the April issue of Glamour magazine address the question “Do I have to wear that?”  Their response:  “Nobody has to wear . . . anything she doesn’t personally love.  Sure, lots of us feel moments (OK, weeks) of uncertainty (OK, low-grade panic) as we’re pummeled by trends and confounded by ‘ins’ and ‘outs.’ But trust me, with time you’ll realize, ‘Duh. No way I’m gonna put on a python print.’  Sitting out a trend or 10 is more than all right, more than smart:  It’s empowering.”  Brava, Glamour!    Adapt the latest trends selectively.  Wear what suits you, what is flattering to your face and figure, what makes you feel terrific when you put it on.  When you wear what you love, you reveal your true self to the world.          GEMS FROM THE JEWELRY COUNSELOR April/May 2005     Oscars, Oscars 2005 - a study in repetition   Repetition can be a good thing, a useful tool.  Repetition adds emphasis.  It helps others remember something you are communicating.    In fashion, repetition can bring attention to the shape, motif or color repeated.   But repetition is not always a good thing.  If you launch into your favorite joke for the umpteenth time and the people around you are groaning, you’ve learned this lesson.   The competing coverage of the red carpet arrivals before the Academy Awards this year – were there four or more channels doing simultaneous broadcasts? – did not add to the amount of information conveyed.  Although E! and TV Guide Channel tried to one-up each other (Star Jones Reynolds for E! repeating ad nauseum that she was positioned to have the first crack at arriving celebrities; Joan and Melissa Rivers for TV Guide Channel topping E!’s pearl-studded microphone with a microphone covered in rubies), the quality of information conveyed was decidedly sub-par.  Hearing the same questions repeated (again and again) by multiple interviewers on multiple channels was perhaps only a bit more boring for the audience than it was for the celebrities who gallantly tried to keep things fresh with each new interview.   We heard the commentators gush (and deservedly so) over Cate Blanchett’s star-worthy yellow silk taffeta gown by Valentino, with its elegant lines and lavish train.  Although Ms. Blanchett was standing directly in front of them, the commentators couldn’t agree as to whether the waist of her dress was the color chocolate brown (as stated by the E! Fashion Police) or maroon (as offered by the team on the TV Guide Channel).  And despite the fact that the dress was set off by the most exquisite brooch of pastel colored gemstones, we had to hunt through numerous post-Oscar reports to find any mention of the fact that the brooch was designed by Lorraine Schwartz in emeralds and diamonds.  People magazine reported that Valentino designed the dress and specifically instructed Ms. Blanchett to adorn it with a large brooch – and, by the way, People never got around to telling us what that mystery color is!   Brooches continued in a starring role at this year’s Oscars, often used creatively to accent the back of a gown or the hair.  Drew Barrymore accented the back of her black halter-style gown with a large diamond brooch by Lorraine Schwartz.  A pair of diamond dress clips added dazzle to Kate Winslet’s elegant periwinkle Badgley Mischka gown.  Ms. Winslet also wore diamond clips in her hair and lovely diamond drop earrings, all by Neil Lane.    Scarlett Johansson looking lovely in a structured black dress by Roland Mouret with three vintage Fred Leighton starburst brooches sewn into a ribbon and pinned in her hair.  She has grown into one of the most poised and lovely movie stars of our time, her impeccable posture and composure belying the fact that the dress was so tight she confessed she could hardly breathe, and that the blonde hair so beautifully adorned was looking a bit fried – perhaps too much repetition of bleach?   Sophie Okonedo was lovely with a long strand of spaced pearls worn around her up-do, but was seriously in need of some additional jewelry to add star power to her strapless white gown.  Here’s one case where repetition definitely would have finished the look.   One dress that needed almost no jewelry to make a splash was that of Hilary Swank.  She gets kudos for wearing a backless navy blue dress with a seriously demure front sure to raise controversy.  Unfortunately, for many people, it reminded of Celine Dion’s disaster a few years ago of a backwards white suit.  And only a body trained to the peak of perfect, as Hilary’s has been since her last movie, could wear this Guy Laroche creation.  For most women, my advice is don’t try this at home!   Other relative newcomers on the red carpet channeled looks from celebrities who preceded them, sometimes by years and sometimes by mere weeks.  Most notable for this fashion faux pas was Natalie Portman, who looked lovely in her Grecian putty-colored gown by Lanvin, but was the spittin’ image of Winona Ryder with a crystal headband in her tightly controlled hairdo.    Shame on the stylist of Catalina Sandino Moreno for not knowing that the Roberto Cavalli dress trimmed with sparkling metallic strips had been done and done again at the Grammy’s a couple of weeks ago.  Nonetheless, the dress was perfection on Catalina.    Contrast the youthful loveliness of Ms. Sandino Moreno with the overblown pretentiousness of the get-up of Emmy Rossum.  She must have bought her strapless Ralph Lauren column dresses in bulk.  We saw white at the Emmy’s, pink at another function written up in Elle magazine, and now red, each time worn with demi-parures of gemstones fit for a dowager and provided by Harry Winston.  This 18-year-old has the figure and the large facial features to enable her to take some chances and loosen up.  Her inappropriate choice of jewelry makes her look old beyond her years.   Halle Berry was another celebrity who wore a style we’ve seen on her before, and it didn’t look much better the second time around.  Once again she chose a single-strap gown, this one in taupe from Versace.  As one of my male friends noted, it made it look as though one of her breasts was larger than the other.  Here repetition of the strap on the other side might have made all the difference.   One area where repetition was a good thing was in longevity.  The young starlets might do well to look at some of the women who have demonstrated staying power in the movies.  Imelda Staunton chose a dress that suited her petite frame perfectly, created for her by costume designer John Bright.  Her fitted dress in teal taffeta with a skirt that was tea-length at the front and dipped to formal length in the back, three-quarters length sleeves, and a collar high in the back but providing flattering décolletage, was spectacular.  Ms. Staunton wore an interesting diamond squiggle brooch to emphasize the décolletage and added the perfect size diamond circlet earrings at her ears.   Another stand-out was Helen Mirren, whose Badgley Mischka gown was designed with elaborate patterns of lacey grey that set off every curve of her figure.  She wore a stunning princess-length diamond necklace but then – perhaps repeating the current trend toward multiple necklaces – inexplicably added two extra-long strands of diamonds that cascaded over her chest and added nothing to her ensemble.   Oprah Winfrey positively dazzled in her golden Vera Wang gown featuring a flattering portrait neckline, her hair in loose curls.  She seemed to be having the time of her life, and we enjoyed every moment right along with her.    Other stand-outs included Salma Hayek, who was sheer perfection in her custom-made Prada dress of midnight blue accented with black bows and tasteful beading, and makeup and hairstyle reminiscent of Brigitte Bardot.  Her diamond and sapphire drop earrings were the perfect finishing touch.    Ziyi Zhang also was a model of perfection, wearing one of the most spectacular diamond necklaces of the night, which was custom made for her by Bulgari to complement her perfectly cut black dress of lace and tulle by Monique Lhuillier. The necklace had two strands of diamonds, each one accented with a starburst design at front center, and the lower strand featuring two dangling starbursts.    Gwyneth Paltrow once again chose a dress with an ill-fitting bodice – this time in pastel pink by Stella McCartney.  However, her large multi-loop diamond earrings and bracelet of diamonds in a cut-out design by Damiani, an Italian line for whom she is a spokesmodel, were lovely.    I find it remarkable how many of the celebrities fail to take the time to make certain that their fashion choices are flattering.  Usually this is due to poor fit.  Often this is due to a lack of good foundations underpinning the dresses.     Star Jones Reynolds continues to be desperately in need of a good stylist to guide her.  First, Star’s sleeveless dress of a gold material by Richard Tyler did not fit her properly front or back.  Star had this problem before, with last year’s Oscar dresses being similarly ill-fitting.  Here’s one area where repetition is key:  You MUST make the time for repeated dress fittings, especially when your weight is changing.  Second, Star chose once again to overload on a mismatched collection of big jewelry – an enormous necklace with big earrings, two bangle bracelets and a mismatched lattice-motif necklace adorning the false curls pinned to the back of her head in an elaborate updo.  While going matchy-matchy with jewelry (a la Emmy Rossum) is considered overly conservative, jewelry worn together MUST have some consistency in design and materials to give an ensemble some finesse.    Melanie Griffith presented another important lesson.  Her lavender-grey Versace dress, which appeared to come straight from the 1980’s, had a deep décolletage accentuated by drapes of fabric on her arms.  The effect:  Her lack of good foundations made her breasts look saggy and the swoops of fabric on the sleeves repeated that line and made the sagginess even more pronounced.    Another actress in dire need of a better-fitting dress and/or better foundations is Regina King, whose dress of warm taupe with cascading flowers was pretty enough, but didn’t hide the problems with fit.  Satin is notoriously unforgiving.  She chose long drop earrings that added too much fussiness near the elaborate neckline, which could easily have stood on its own. Add to that her choice of wearing this year’s million-dollar diamond Stuart Weitzman shoes, and if I were that sponsor, I would not be happy.  When you wear million dollar shoes, you’d better look like a million bucks.   Finally, I was disappointed with the fashion choices of Laura Linney, who wore a gown of tattered ruffles of grey that fit her well enough but washed out her complexion, a hairstyle approaching the look of a bad mullet, and a long-necklace of pearls culminating in diamond yin/yang symbols wrapped twice around her neck and tied in front in a slipknot that kept slipping.  At an important event, do NOT wear accessories that require your attention, no matter how beautiful they look in the store.   Learn from the celebrities’ mistakes and from their successes.  Wear the correct foundations.  Particularly for special occasions, and optimally all the time, make sure that your apparel fits properly.  Choose jewelry that flatters and doesn’t require you to fuss over it.  Learn what colors and styles work for you, and then be confident in the repetition of your delightfully flattering choices.         GEMS FROM THE JEWELRY COUNSELOR February/March 2005   Grammy Awards Spin Gold and Platinum   Maybe the Grammy Awards are becoming more mainstream, but the gorgeous, figure-flattering fashions on display were a far cry from the baggy, shapeless garments favored by recording artists so often in the recent past.    Gold and platinum were huge, and not just in the best-selling albums of the artists.  Dresses were edged or wrapped in shiny metallics, often in mixes of hues, for a dazzling effect.  In performing with her husband, Marc Anthony, Jennifer Lopez wore a pastel grey-green blouson, halter-style dress with a wrap of mixed silver and gold worn around her hips that emphasized her famous derriere.  Usher’s date, model Eishia Brightwell, wore a short Gucci dress in soft yellow with metallic gold similarly emphasizing her hips.    Metallics, especially in mixes of subtle shimmery hues, are a look that can make any woman feel glamorous.   Use metallic accessories such as handbags, shoes, scarves and wraps, to bring add dazzle to your wardrobe without busting the budget.  But wear a metallic hip wrap only if you want to draw attention to that particular – uh, asset!    Roberto Cavalli, a designer favoring the use of metallics, was the designer of choice for the evening, having persuaded many of the biggest artists to wear his fashions.  Alicia Keys and Beyonce wore white and black versions, respectively, of Cavalli dresses similar in that they were edged at the sleeveless shoulders with a wide metallic band.  Alicia’s also featured cut-outs at the waist and emphasis on the hips.  Similarly, Sheryl Crow and Jamie Foxx’s date, Leila Arcieri, wore yellow and pink versions, respectively, of a halter style dress with a large, metallic-edged bite taken out of the left midsection of the dress.  I’m greatly surprised that the Cavalli team didn’t help the celebrities avoid wearing the same dresses.  Hopefully next year, the artists will be a little more creative and less lemming-like in their wardrobe selections.   Along with hip wraps, empire style dresses were another key trend.  Queen Latifah hosted the evening, wearing two beautiful creations by Bradley Bayou for Halston.  The first, in bright red with a sparkling golden belt buckle emphasizing the empire waist of the dress, was accessorized with a stunning wide golden necklace befitting a queen.  An empire waist was also seen on the Cavalli dress worn by Beyonce.    When Latifah changed into a strapless black number to croon a jazz standard, she chose a princess-length necklace of diamonds in platinum with beautiful and interesting drop earrings to match – classic and stunning. After her performance, Latifah put on her third and most casual ensemble of the evening -- grey slacks and top worn with a short shiny black leather jacket and long drop earrings.    Another artist who took a quasi-casual approach to the evening was Jill Scott, who covered up her black and metallic silver ensemble with a short jeans jacket sporting a black feathery brooch.  I would have liked to see the line of her jacket coordinate with the line of the long vee of her sparkly top to give her a longer line.     Dressing up in slacks was done to perfection by the marvelous Mavis Staples.  She wore black slacks and a low-cut v-neck top with a black jacket dotted with black sequins, and she looked gorgeous, proving that fabulous style is not just for the very young.   One style that is suitable only for the very young is the long Petro Zillia gown of white splashed with enormous multi-color mod flowers worn by Joss Stone.  If you are full-figured, avoid oversized patterns unless you have either a big personality and/or large facial features – eyes, nose and/or mouth -- that give monster-size posies some relation to your physical features, and even then, please tread carefully.     The mellow warmth of yellow gold pushed ahead of the platinum and white gold jewelry that reigned at the Golden Globes.  From Alicia Key’s stack of golden bangles to large yellow gold earrings worn by Beyonce, Ashanti, Janet Jackson, and Fergie of the Black-Eyed Peas, among others, yellow gold was the metal of the moment.  Even the men, including Tim McGraw and Usher chose layered yellow gold necklaces, with Usher adding several yellow gold chain bracelets to his ensemble.   As I write this, Hollywood is gearing up for the Academy Awards.  Which of the trends we’ve seen so far this year will continue, and which have already had their day in the limelight?  Stay tuned for the next installment as awards season continues.  GEMS FROM THE JEWELRY COUNSELOR January 2005   Golden Globes a Dazzling Feast of Color   The Golden Globes awards show itself seemed almost interminably long to me, especially after clicking back and forth to watch two hours of red carpet coverage by competing commentators. But, like watching the Super Bowl for the commercials, watching the Golden Globes for the fashions is one of the rites of spring. It’s a first glance at the first trends of the year. And, go figure, Star Jones Reynolds stated that she had been “instructed to stop gushing and stop talking about clothes” while hosting “Live from the Red Carpet: Golden Globes.” What a silly, misguided instruction! A question for E! Entertainment: Why do you think we watch the show, if not for the fashions? This spring, fashion is a dazzling feast of color. The ubiquitous black that shrouded almost everyone at the People’s Choice Awards the previous week was largely relegated to the back of the closet, as the vast majority of stars stepped out in a glorious range of hues that went well beyond the subdued pastels and muted beiges prevalent at last year’s Academy Awards. Nicole Kidman looked beautiful in a teal satin confection by Gucci, accented by peacock feathers that Ms. Kidman herself added, to delightful effect. Here’s an example of how adding a bit of your own personality can make a look. Charlize Theron, sporting dark brunette hair, wore an exquisite shade of dark blue satin by Dior, and Chopard earrings featuring over 36 carats of aquamarine that brought out the color of her eyes. Sandra Oh dazzled in a raspberry gown, Claire Danes in orchid, Kerry Washington in turquoise blue, and Mariska Hargitay in a luscious shade of pink. Well-chosen colors flatter and delight the eye in a way that basic black cannot. Learn what colors suit you, and revel in them! A delightful surprise (and great news for all of us brown-eyed girls) was the strong showing of brown in all the shades of a coffee house’s offerings, from cool browns, almost black in hue, as seen in the currently brunette Renee Zellweger’s chic short dress by Carolina Herrera, to the warmer caramel-touched hue of Hillary Swank’s satin column by Calvin Klein. Marcia Cross looked lovely in a Richard Tyler dress of cut velvet in multiple shades of brown that set off her beautiful red hair. Some efforts at incorporating color were less successful. Notable among these was the elaborate and stunning Donna Karan halter dress of draping, braiding and cut-outs worn by Teri Hatcher. Although the dress was reportedly custom-designed, the color – an icy grey – was too cool for the golden skin of Ms. Hatcher. I would have loved to have seen this dress done in a warm brown. Despite the color, the pure joy on Ms. Hatcher’s face delighted and made fans of us all! Silver was more effectively worn by Minnie Driver, who looked beautiful in a lace confection by Randolph Duke that perfectly set off her curves and complemented her naturally cooler coloring. Scarlett Johansson can teach us all a thing or two about posture and attitude. She looked every inch the movie star. Unfortunately, her unusually hued dusky apricot-colored dress and dark red lipstick clashed, detracting from her image. While matching lipstick to dress is not the fashion today, as a general rule, be sure that the reddish hues you wear are in the same color family. There were few full-figured actresses in the spotlight this time. (Queen Latifah, we missed you!) Star Jones Reynolds was gorgeous in a sea foam green dress by designer Kevin Hall designed to flatter her curves, and went for quality over quantity in her jewelry. Her $7 million 54-carat emerald-cut diamond brooch by Chopard was an example of ostentatious but understated elegance. Brooches made other notable appearances. Halle Berry carried off a dress notoriously difficult to wear, designed by Valentino, with fourteen tiers of ruffles in a soft shade of taupe, accessorized with an amazing brooch of multi-hued faceted stones sparkling at her bodice. In earrings, the styles were predominantly long, in all manner of styles and widths. This is the best of all possible worlds, for it means that there is something flattering for everyone! Notice how apparent body size, relative size of facial features and personality affect choice of jewelry. For example, Annette Bening wore small yet dazzling earrings and delicate diamond bracelets that suit her small frame and features. In contrast, tiny (is she even a size zero?) Eva Longoria wore huge emerald chandelier earrings by H. Stern, which would overwhelm the average petite woman, but worked for her because of her large mouth relative to her overall size and also because of her vibrant personality. (I would have preferred to see the earrings set in white metal rather than yellow gold, however, as the bright green and yellow was a bit too warm-toned for Ms. Longoria.) Contrast the success of Ms. Longoria’s look with the effect of the earrings worn by newcomer Emmy Rossum, whose huge, opulent Harry Winston emerald and diamond earrings, though magnificent, would have much better suited a seasoned dowager than a 19-year-old actress. Ms. Rossum has large facial features and therefore will generally look better in more substantial jewelry, but a more youthful design would have been much more flattering. Notice the exceptional choice of diamond Harry Winston earrings worn by Claire Danes, which were not too narrow and which extended exactly the length from her earlobes to her jawline – sheer perfection. Ashley Judd chose a pair of Martin Katz vintage earrings of diamonds and enamel with a delicate bow design, absolutely exquisite with her fine features. We saw all manner of wonderful, interesting necklines, with many asymmetrical drapings and one-shoulder gowns. Because of the level of detail of the necklines, necklaces were not as prevalent as usual but, as always, there were styles worth noting. Debra Messing was the epitome of taste in a princess-length strand of large black pearls worn with her deep vee-cut silk gown. Notice that the size of the pearls relate to her relatively large features. Debi Mazer wore a diamond and pearl drop necklace with an undulating design that was reminiscent of, and therefore beautifully complemented, her heart-shaped face. Note, however, how the drops at the ends of Ms. Mazer’s long, linear earrings brought the eye down; shorter earrings that end near her earlobes would have been more flattering and would have competed less with the necklace. Kate Hudson wore an unusual, wide choker of peridot and sapphire that looked to be set in vintage plastic and which also looked terribly uncomfortable. Raquel Welch looked amazing at age 78(!) in a figure-hugging Mark Jacobs gown accessorized with an exquisite Van Cleef and Arpels necklace in a structured asymmetrical design as curvaceous and timelessly sexy as the woman wearing it. The trend of wearing multiple necklaces was not in evidence at this year’s Golden Globes. I noted two exceptions: Angelica Huston piled on two enormous multi-strand diamond necklaces to bring interest to her simple black long-sleeved gown, and Evangeline Lilly wore two insubstantial and unrelated necklaces that detracted from the lines of her classic scoop-neck black dress. The multi-necklace approach can be charming for casual wear, but tends not to work well for more formal occasions. If you choose to adapt the style of wearing multiple necklaces, remember that the pieces work best when they have some relatedness in materials and design – merely consisting of the same metal or stones is not sufficient to bring harmony to your ensemble. Another lesson from the Golden Globes: Going without jewelry, and particularly, foregoing earrings, with a formal gown tends to make the look unfinished. Renee Zellweger’s cocktail-length dress just begged for some glittery earrings to complete the ensemble and bring attention to her face, especially since she chose to wear her hair back in a tight ponytail. I thought the ponytails sported by Renee Zellweger, Hillary Swank and Portia de Rossi looked fresh and chic. This hairstyle brings attention to great bone structure in the face. A ponytail also spotlights the ears, so if you choose to wear this style, be mindful of the shape of your ears. If they are flat to your head, as in the case of Ms. Zellweger or de Rossi, then a no-earrings look is fine. If you wish to camouflage prominent ears, however, use earrings large enough to cover the earlobes, avoiding earrings that dangle from wires, and wide enough to extend the line of the ears. In bracelets, bangles were a popular choice, often worn in multiples, as seen on Halle Berry, Kerry Washington, Kate Winslet and Star Jones Reynolds, among others. Diamond link bracelets were, as always, a popular choice, seen on Mischa Barton, Jennifer Garner, Marcia Cross, Nicollette Sheridan, Teri Hatcher, and a multitude of other stars. Bracelets are an appropriate choice for virtually every woman, as they highlight beautiful hands and arms but, at the same time, can distract the eye from imperfections of the hands and arms. That’s just another example of the delightful power of jewelry.     GEMS FROM THE JEWELRY COUNSELOR December 2004   Love Actually   It’s year-end.  A time for reflection. A time to ask “What if?” and “Why not?”  even as we contemplate making resolutions for the coming year.  And it’s the perfect time to invite more love into each of our lives.   Awaiting the flurry of celebrity-laden awards shows that start airing in January, I’ve been delighting in repeated viewings on cable of the movie “Love Actually,” a 2003 release from British writer, producer and director Richard Curtis.  He’s the creative genius who also wrote the screenplays for the two Bridget Jones movies with their wonderful message that a rounder, softer body is not, by any means, an obstacle to finding love.    And with “Love Actually,” a patchwork of love stories, that message resounds in force.    Hugh Grant plays the new British Prime Minister, who is charmed by his catering manager, Natalie, played by Martine McCutcheon.     [talking about her ex-boyfriend] Natalie: He says no one's going to fancy a girl with thighs the size of big tree trunks. Not a nice guy, actually, in the end. Prime Minister: Right. Goodness. Well, well. You know, being Prime Minister, I could just have him murdered. Natalie: Thank you, sir. I'll think about it. Prime Minister: Do. The SAS are absolutely charming. Ruthless trained killers are just a phone call away.   Natalie’s chubbiness is no obstacle to her appeal.  She manages to attract not only the P.M., but also the visiting American president, played by Billy Bob Thornton.  Her weight receives comment from fellow staffers and even from her own father, urging “Come along, Plumpie” as the family prepares to head out for a Christmas Eve holiday pageant, but that name is spoken with affection, not derision.  And in the end, ever so delightfully, Natalie gets her man.   British appreciation for the fuller figure these days goes beyond the screen to real life. Co-starring in the Bridget Jones movies, the gorgeous (but alas, married) star Colin Firth told Elle magazine:  “[T]here’s nothing unattractive about Renee [Zellweger] when she’s, uh, you know, filled out a bit.  There are plenty of incredibly sexy chubby women out there.”    My message this holiday season is to urge each of you to appreciate yourself, really appreciate yourself.  Take stock of your unique beauty—the lines and curves, colors and textures of your body, your face, your eyes, nose, mouth, hair—the elements that comprise your physical self.  Reflect upon your skills, talents, intellect, creativity, compassion, goodness and personality.  Be as kind to yourself as you would be to a dear friend.  Honor the marvelous unique being you are, inside and out.  And show the world what an extraordinary woman you are by the image you present.      Resolve not to be a fashion victim.  Don’t settle.  Learn what works for you, uniquely you.  Find styles and colors that truly flatter.  Hold out for just the right look from head to toe.  Buy the best quality you can afford.  Put money into alterations to get the perfect sleeve width, a better style of neckline, an even hem. Use accessories of appropriate scale to personalize your style, making it a memorable reflection of you.    Love yourself actually.  And allow the world to love you back.   Wishing you love this holiday season.       GEMS FROM THE JEWELRY COUNSELOR November 2004   Curves and Coziness for Autumn How luscious are the textures and colors beckoning us as cooler weather sets in! Lightweight clothing is relegated to the back of the closet, except for a few versatile, sexy and spare pieces that work year-round for special event parties and hitting the night life. And the summer's pretty embellished camisoles and tops continue to work under autumn’s structured jackets and textured cardigans. Warm layers and more substantial textures call for substantial embellishment this fall. Fashion spreads are filled with great ideas for ways to add the bling bling that catches the eye and adds a bit of personality to your every ensemble. Let’s take a look at a few of the current trends that can add style, warmth and richness as they complement our curves and revitalize our wardrobes this fall. (Real or faux) fur scarves and collars: What makes this look work is having some length to your neck. If your neck is short and particularly if it is wide relative to the width of your face, don’t add bulk to it with thick fur pieces wrapped around it. These will only visually shorten you. Instead, wear cashmere or fine woolen scarves that lie closer to your neck for warmth, and try these options for incorporating a bit of fur into your wardrobe: An oversize scarf trimmed with fur that can be tied over a coat or draped over one shoulder for a dramatic effect. A fur hat, which can both add a bit of height and jazz up any outfit, casual or dressy. A fur muff – think the romance of “Dr. Zhivago”! Sweaters: The epitome of coziness! There are some great options for fall, including wonderful knee-length or longer sweater coats. Be sure your choice skims over your curves and doesn’t cup your behind when the coat is buttoned in order to achieve a flattering long line. Layering a long chunky sweater over a thin feminine top is a very current look. The lightweight top lying close to your body highlights your curves while the sweater gives the eye a vertical sweep emphasizing the length of your body. Rounded Shapes in Shoes and Bags: For a woman with serious curves, this autumn’s choices in shoes and bags include trendy alternatives in delightful shapes reminiscent of those curves. If the lines of your body or your facial features include straight lines as, for example, if you have very straight eyebrows, then accessories with strong lines, such as rectangular handbags and shoes with pointed toes, will relate to the straight lines of your person and bring an emphasis to them. However, if you are composed entirely of curved lines, as many full-figured women are, then look for handbags and shoes that are designed around curves. Soft shapes in handbags, including rounded shapes in evening bags (see examples by Ferragamo and Chloe in the November issue of Elle) and of course the highly popular satchels, and the new round-toe pumps are excellent ways to bring flattering curved designs into your wardrobe. They will relate to the lines of your body and subtly flatter you in ways that straighter line designs cannot. Kitten heels are another trend that allow for the comfort of lower heels in shoes while still incorporating curves and providing a graceful feminine line to the legs. And, of course, Jewelry: And for the final touch this fall, add bold touches of jewelry. Remember that your jewelry should relate to your choices in apparel. The bulky sweaters and warmer fall fabrics of autumn can take on more substantial jewelry than you might choose to wear with your summer clothing. On the other hand, the layered look of lightweight pieces under chunky sweaters and tweed jackets inherently includes a combination of textures and styles that is pleasingly accessorized with multiple necklaces in complementary styles worn together. Wear necklaces in multiples if and when the necklines of your ensembles can accommodate. If you choose to replicate the look of multiples at your wrists, be mindful of the wear and tear on bracelets that are banging into one another. If your bracelets are set with stones, check them often to make certain that they aren’t loose or missing. Be especially cautious when combining bracelets of soft materials such as pearls with bracelets of hard metals. If you choose to wear a substantial necklace or multiple necklaces, generally it is preferable that your earrings take a lesser role. Choose coordinating stud earrings or larger earrings that end at or above your jawline so that the earrings complement and don’t compete with the necklaces. Choose the features you want to emphasize by the conscious placement of your brooch or brooches on your person. Keep the brooches near your face to focus attention there. Interesting pairs or trios of pins make a bold statement with a demonstration of creativity and wit. Adding touches of (real or faux) yellow or rose gold can add a warmth to the rich tweeds and wools of your autumn wardrobe that the cooler white metals alone can’t achieve. If you prefer white metals, incorporating colored stones in the warmer hues – reds, oranges, ambers and browns – can achieve a similar effect. Let me leave you this month with one final thought: As the temperature drops, whatever your budget and personal style, never forget that you have the power to spread feelings of worth and warmth wherever you go.     GEMS FROM THE JEWELRY COUNSELOR October 2004 The 2004 Primetime Emmy Awards   After the long summer lull without awards shows, the Primetime Emmy Awards gave us a peek at what some of our favorite celebrities are wearing these days.  In a way, the timing is odd from a purely fashion perspective, in that an 85-degree September afternoon in Los Angeles is generally not conducive to wearing the styles being introduced for the fall.  Still, with the prospect of a cooler evening and an air conditioned hall facing the attendees, they brought us a mix of textures from summery, bare satin dresses to velvet cloaks and from feathers to fur.  The eye was delighted with the range of hues, from pretty pastels to rich earth tones to classic black and white to the most intense citrus colors.    How delightful to see full-figured celebrity Star Jones at the microphone for E! Entertainment Television’s “Live from the Red Carpet.”  She dazzled, and her enthusiasm was infectious.    As appropriate for a diva, as she laughingly commented, she wore two different dresses as host of the red carpet show.  The first, a golden confection by Marc Bouwer, had a beaded halter-style bodice highlighting Ms. Jones’s spectacular décolletage. What was puzzling was her choice of jewelry.  She wore huge thin diamond hoop earrings and a beautiful diamond bracelet of over an inch in width with what appeared to be an elaborate flower design clasp on her right wrist.  These were lovely choices separately but had nothing in common from a design perspective other than the use of diamonds, the one being very contemporary in feeling, the other vintage in design.  Then she added what appeared to be two necklaces, or possibly one very long necklace doubled up.  The first necklace was a pretty chain of diamond-shaped links that fell between her breasts (a fashion no-no) and ended on her stomach (ditto – it’s just not the best point of emphasis for most women).  The second necklace, composed of the same diamond-shaped links, ended above her cleavage in a huge tasseled pendant that bore no resemblance in design to the diamond earrings or bracelet.  The tassel needed to be adjusted all evening but the stylists on the set didn’t seem to notice.  Doing away with the necklaces or choosing designs with a common style or theme would have presented a much more elegant look.  It was more than a surfeit of necklaces that was problematic with Star Jones’s second ensemble for the evening. I’ve never before seen a dress by Badgley Mischka fail, but this one did. The pale pink “lingerie-style” gown didn’t fit her properly at the bustline, creating an obvious gap. The gown seemed to have a corset-like mid-section that focused attention there. Ms. Jones wore a shrug made of “summer chinchilla” that seemed to get twisted around and fall awkwardly as she moved. By the end of her segment she had discarded it entirely. And she tried unsuccessfully to cover up the bodice problems again with long necklaces that leaped over the gap. The Fred Leighton diamond earrings that replaced the hoops were lovely. But another fashion faux pas was the bracelet that appeared to be a necklace looped repeatedly around her wrist. Like the shrug, it loosened and unwrapped with each successive bit on camera, until it was hanging off her wrist. Surprisingly, no one came to her assistance to assist with these wardrobe malfunctions. Star, we love you, but you need (a) an on-site assistant, and (b) a good stylist who understands how to dress and accessorize the fuller figure!  I was so looking forward for Star Jones to correct an oversight we’ve seen in years past when Joan Rivers hosted the pre-awards show: Almost to a person, a full-figured celebrity is never asked who designed her dress or accessories. To my great disappointment, Ms. Jones did nothing to correct this oversight, and not an iota of information about the designers to the plus-size market was either sought or shared. Similarly, the E! Entertainment “Fashion Police” in their post-awards show, discussed briefly the fashions of select celebrities over age 50, but only the designers of the apparel of Bonnie Hunt (in Kevin Hall), Stockard Channing (in Zac Posen) and Barbara Walters (in Donna Karan) were mentioned, whereas the designers for Doris Roberts and Tyne Daly, the fuller-figured members of that group, were once again completely ignored.  Taking a closer look, Doris Roberts looked lovely in a scoop neck black satin dress with what looked to be an over jacket of black velvet edged in satin. The E! Fashion Police noted with approval that she wore two trend setting styles – diamond chandelier earrings and the large diamond brooch on her lapel.  Tyne Daly was criticized by the E! Fashion Police for her too-casual choice of a black pantsuit splashed with large red flowers at the left shoulder and right hemline of her knee-length jacket. She accessorized the ensemble with sassy red shoes, matching earrings and necklace with disks of red opaque stones, and a shorter necklace with a peace sign pendant. Her use of color was superb. I think she looked great and that the ensemble was very flattering to her, but would have preferred to see it made up in a more festive choice of fabric, reflecting both the formal feeling of the event and fall’s emphasis on ornamentation.  Among the other full-figured celebrities present, Aida Turturro wore a black dress with a flattering sweetheart neckline and no noticeable jewelry at her ears or neck. I would have loved to see a bit of bling bling happening near this dynamic lady’s face. (Ms. Turturro, may I introduce you to my line, Apprecia Fine Jewelry?)  As for trends in jewelry, once again, earrings ruled.  Nothing brings attention to the face like a gorgeous pair of sparklers.  Diamond earrings were seen in all variations from studs to single drops (Sarah Jessica Parker), double drops, or triple drops (Kim Cattrall and Cheryl Hines), to linear designs (Edie Falco and Anne Heche), to chandeliers (Sharon Stone wearing Kwiat and Lorraine Bracco wearing Chopard), to huge designs that defy categorization (Barbara Walters and Teri Hatcher).    Long crystal pieces added to the drama of earrings selected by Debra Messing and Mariska Hargitay.  But caution – these can be heavy!  The earrings on Ms. Hargitay swung wildly and appeared to be pulling on her earlobes.  Indeed, there was plenty of oversize jewelry present at the Emmy Awards.  A pair of huge diamond earrings accessorized Jennifer Aniston’s gold-embroidered, white strapless Chanel column dress.  Heather Locklear appropriately chose large ethnic-inspired earrings to complement her bright multi-colored gown.  The oversize earrings worn by Amber Tamblin were, in my opinion, too large and matronly to complement her delicate beauty, especially contrasting with the delicate sheer cap sleeves of her vintage-style dress.  Something smaller and vintage would have been more charming.  Ms. Aniston and Ms. Locklear were able to carry off the larger earrings on their small frames in part because the earrings were largely hidden by their long hair.  Huge rings reaching to the knuckles were seen on a number of luminaries, including Patricia Heaton and Brooke Burke from E! Entertainment, both sporting oversize rectangular Tony Duquette pieces. Necklaces went large too. A huge, fabulous antique amethyst necklace graced the neck of Stockard Channing.  Chunky beads were sported in a single strand of grey by Meryl Streep and in multiple strands of turquoise by Cynthia Nixon.  Angelica Huston chose a dramatic strand of “shark’s tooth” coral to highlight the neckline of her classic black halter-style gown.  Indeed, the key trend in necklaces spotted at the Emmy Awards was the wearing of multiple strand necklaces or multiple necklaces.  Alison Janney wore a yellow gold six-strand necklace with an interesting looking center drop with her lime green strapless gown.  Megan Mullaly accessorized her almost Goth-looking austere black satin dress, which did show plenty of cleavage, with a very fine multi-strand necklace with diamonds spaced at intervals that ended in a double drop.  The strands of the necklace, however, were too delicate to complement the weight of the dress, almost disappearing against her skin, and the linear earrings were similarly unsubstantial.  I would have liked to see her sporting some serious rocks.  Kristin Davis was exquisite in her black Prada corset dress accessorized with what appeared to be two necklaces – an elaborate shorter necklace of diamonds and pearl drops set in “japanned” or blackened metal, and a longer three-strand necklace of what appeared to be oxidized metal with large pearls spaced at intervals.  Yes, as you’ve undoubtedly noticed, gemstones set at intervals in necklaces is an important trend.  It’s also a very flattering look for the full-figured woman, as it gives one a lot of volume without a lot of bulk.  But be cautious of going too delicate – the accessories should be in visual balance with your choice of apparel. Bracelets were generally not as interesting as those worn at some of the recent awards shows.  Two notable exceptions existed, however:  I love the wide mesh cuff bracelet studded with pink and yellow stones worn by Debra Messing with her strapless coral-colored Michael Kors dress.  And Portia de Rossi wore a long Givenchy fitted black sheath perfectly accessorized with pizzazz via an enormous oversized diamond-studded chain link bracelet by Diane von Furstenberg for H. Stern.  Brooches had their time in the limelight too, notably at the waist of Sarah Jessica Parker’s black Chanel Couture dress, the hemline of Joely Richardson’s goddess-like white satin confection, and the jacket of Doris Roberts.  There’s been a lot of talk of the worst-dressed of the evening;  the Jewelry Counselor focuses on the worst-accessorized.  My two candidates are Paula Abdul, wearing way too much jewelry for her tiny frame --  large diamond chandelier earrings, and a black pearl necklace with diamond extender, topped off with a diamond tiara, none of which pieces coordinated with any of the others.  Any one of these items of jewelry would have been sufficient in itself.  Another lesson is to be learned here – accessories needn’t and, under current style rules, optimally shouldn’t, match, but they should have a consistency of style; these did not.  Another choice for worst accessories is the flapper-style length of pearls worn with the vintage Christian Dior pink lace-trimmed lingerie-style dress selected by Jorja Fox.  The styles seemed out-of-date separately and didn’t work together.  Sorry, ladies. But please know that the Jewelry Counselor always stands ready to lend you a hand in your selection of accessories for your next major event!       GEMS FROM THE JEWELRY COUNSELOR September 2004 Golden Days of Self-Expression The Jewelry Counselor is in her glory this season, as the fashion magazines almost unanimously embrace a concept that is core to what I’ve been preaching: Jewelry and accessories, like all apparel, should be selected based upon what is most flattering on you, the individual, with your unique face, figure and personality. Am I telling you to disregard fashion trends? Absolutely not! Your nod to current trends gives you instant credibility. Don’t kid yourself into thinking that wearing fashion-forward styles of apparel, eyewear, shoes, handbags and jewelry isn’t something that people will notice. Take note of trends and incorporate those bits that make sense for your looks, lifestyle and budget. I’m sure you’ve heard this many times before: The easiest way to update your look is with accessories. And the easiest way to upgrade your look is with quality accessories. Your first choice in quality accessories that will make an impact is jewelry. Anna Wintour, the Editor-in-Chief of Vogue magazine, asserts in her September 2004 column that jewelry now surpasses handbags as the seasonal must-have item and that “its preciousness is more a matter of self-expression than of carats.” “Ransack Grandma’s jewelry box,” Vogue tells us. “Whether your budget’s Harry Winston or Kenneth Jay Lane, think brooches, baubles and beads.” The ads for fashions in all price ranges provide plenty of inspiration. The September 2004 issue of Glamour magazine suggests looking for items that are floral, furry, sparkly, colorful or tweedy. “Crib sheet for fall: Nothing plain, simple safe—humdrum—allowed. Scan the racks for ruffles, color, prints, fun.” And Glamour tells us to be ourselves in our choices: “DON’T fall for a trend that makes no sense for your lifestyle. If you’re a city girl, you can get away with wearing glam evening-y pieces for day. But if you’ve got a super-casual lifestyle, don’t bother. You’ll just feel silly.” The August 2004 issue of Allure magazine chimes in: “A woman asks a lot of her clothes. They should play up her best features, mask her flaws, even speak volumes about who she is. . . . Flout all the unwritten rules, and go with what instinctively feels good. Now, that’s not too much to ask, is it?” Unquestionably this season is all about self-expression. The choices are seemingly endless. Jewelry --- especially brooches – present exceptional opportunities to interject personality into anything one wears. Necklaces are piled on in multiples, a look that works best when the necklaces bear some relation in style to one another and to the style of the clothing with which they are worn. Charms on bracelets, necklaces, purses and even sewn onto pockets, are another whimsical mode of communication and a trend almost irresistible to the collector. And a cost-effective way to emulate all those expensive designer shoes loaded with embellishment, is to hunt down vintage shoe clips. Another wonderful trend that respects all sizes is the resurgence of cloaks, capes and wraps. Be cautious about stoles and Victorian-style capelets, which can be used to balance a pear-shaped body by adding width to the shoulders, but they also add a strong horizontal line that emphasizes the overall width of the body. A longer, more generously sized wrap will usually be more flattering to a full figure. I frequently urge you, my readers, to learn to recognize accessories that will flatter you. I’d like to illustrate how this works with several photographs from the pages of the September 2004 issue of InStyle magazine. One celebrity who consistently dresses to perfection is the beautiful actress Halle Berry. By her choices, she demonstrates an understanding of what clothing and accessories work for her. To those of you who think, yeah right, she would look good in a paper bag, I readily concede that she would, but she wouldn’t have that elusive star quality that she reinforces with her style. Yes, clothing and accessories DO make a difference. The September 2004 issue of InStyle, with its gorgeous photographs, gives us an opportunity to see, using Ms. Berry as our model, how a simple change of earrings can bring attention to different features of a face. On page 39 of the issue, where the issue’s index begins, is a photograph of Ms. Berry wearing a stunning beaded lavender-colored dress. Although the dress is exquisite, one notices Ms. Berry first, not her dress. In part, this is due to the effect of the beautiful earrings that draw the eyes to her face. Notice how the earrings are almost identical in shape and size to her nose, bringing attention to that feature. Notice also how the central motif of the earrings resembles the shape of her face but flipped upside down, giving a pleasing symmetry. The earrings are long, but because of the high placement of her ears and her relatively long neck, they end very pleasingly at her jaw line. The dangling drops no doubt dazzle with each movement with the kind of high energy that Ms. Berry exudes. Now compare that picture to the cover photograph, where Ms. Berry is wearing an even sexier sequined gold and black zebra-print gown. (Be sure to see page 76 to see how the tulle at the bottom of the gown repeats the shape of her hair.) Notice how the stylist has dialed back the scale of the earrings to accommodate the elaborate high-wattage design of the dress. The earrings are short but not ditzy teardrop-shaped gemstones sitting close to her ears and drawing attention to her beautiful cheekbones. Different accessories, different focus, different effect. And both absolutely gorgeous! And there’s more to be learned about earrings from the September issue of InStyle. Please open your issue to page 210, where InStyle tells us: “We suspect you’ve been listening to some of those oh-so-ahead-of-the-curve oracles, declaring that chandelier earrings are out. Well, here are four superlative-looking women just smashing in gold, shoulder-dusting extravagance. So what does this mean? It means that in/out edicts are as tired and ridiculous as the false information they convey. Wear what you love. And we love these.” One of the four photos to which the writer refers, and the photo I’d like you to take a look at, is that of Ashlee Simpson, wearing huge gold earrings in what almost looks like a rounded Christmas tree shape. Notice the contours of her face, with its series of curves and angles, and the in-and-out lines and curves of her long wavy hair. The earrings beautifully repeat the patterns of her face and hair. Moreover, Ms. Simpson has a long neck that enables her to carry off these shoulder-dusters with panache. The ultimate result: On her, these earrings are sheer perfection. Even if I love these earrings on Ms. Simpson, would I buy them for myself? Not a chance. They bear no resemblance to my face or features, and would look ridiculous on me with my short neck. Wear what you love? Well, let me amend InStyle’s pronouncement to say, wear what you love IF it suits you. If something is absolutely fabulous on you, you will know it and others will let you know it, too. Finally, since I’m on the subject of self-expression, let me end this month’s column with an observation. The August 2004 issue of Harper’s Bazaar contains a Letter from its Editor in Chief, focusing on the role of fashion in politics, and commenting upon the designer wardrobes of Teresa Heinz Kerry and Laura Bush. But there are other women up there at the podium and speaking at political rallies across the country: Lynne Cheney and Elizabeth Edwards, the wives of the Vice Presidential candidates. Now I certainly understand that because of considerations of magazine space, any slight on the Editor’s part may have been unintentional, but I am sad for what I see as another missed opportunity for the fashion establishment to comment in a positive way about the style of an attractive, successful woman who happens to have a fuller figure than some of her political colleagues. Mrs. Edwards dresses beautifully and there is much we can all learn from her style choices too. If you come across an issue that deserves comment, do consider picking up your pen or firing up your e-mail and sharing your concerns with the author or here on VenusDivas.com. You can make a difference – but only if you take advantage of the opportunity to express yourself.     GEMS FROM THE JEWELRY COUNSELOR August 2004   Fall 2004:  Complex Textures, Lavish Embellishments   What fun we can have with the fall 2004 fashions and accessories!  Lavish, ornate, vintage-inspired looks from the 1940’s through the 1970’s are making a huge comeback.  These looks are complex and take a bit of thought and planning, in stark contrast to the simple pared-down dressing we enjoy in the summer.  It’s time to allow our creativity to shine!   As the new fall fashions hit the stores and the pages of the August issues of magazines, I recommend that you do what fashion designers do – create a look book or a bulletin board of fashion clippings that appeal and are interesting to you.  Notice the relatively sleek silhouettes, topped with capes, stoles and scarves and lavish doses of jewelry.  Purses are true handbags now, satchels rather than shoulder bags or clutches.  The intense saturated colors of purses and shoes, especially in unusual shades of green and blue, are breathtaking.    Kudos to the editors of Glamour magazine, who in their August 2004 issue provide a practical guide to “mixing it up.”  Their recommendations:  Buy a few special embroidered, beaded or sequined pieces to wear together with daywear, ignoring time of day rules.  They particularly encourage mixing textures, such as tweed with satin and knits with chiffon.  And here’s a key point – mix up the scale of prints when pairing them – big with small, NOT big all over.  This is especially important for the full-figured woman.  Using medium-sized prints, especially if the design is reminiscent of the shapes and sizes of your facial features, brings attention to those features in a most flattering way.  Don’t think that because you are a large woman you need large prints.    Autumn’s approach to fashion works well on the curvy or full-figured woman.  The key look is application of the principle of wearing the “third piece” – a jacket, sweater, cape or scarf.  The third piece adds a burst of interest over the underlying garments, which this fall are simple, elegant basics – blouses or tops and straight skirts or slacks that fit close to the body.  In black, brown or muted colors, the underlying pieces provide a streamlined look from neckline to hem.  Use belts to show off a curvy waistline.  And the satchel, with its soft, somewhat rounded lines, complements a rounded figure beautifully.   This fall, for the most current look, bypass bright primary colors in favor of more complex colors such as teals, browns, roses, purples and interesting shades of blue and green.  Colors that are shaded (meaning having some black in them) or toasted (having some brown in them) will be easier to blend with the tweeds and prints that you may inclined to incorporate into your personal style mix.  Tweeds can be delightful, but be careful not to choose fabrics that add too much bulk.    Prada, Versace and Armani, among other designers, have stunningly gorgeous fashions displayed in their ads with models wearing complex selections of color, texture and embellishment.  Note the extensive use of antique and vintage jewelry.  Rhinestones and crystals are important accents.  Watch for significantly sized necklaces and bracelets, along with brooches, which you already know are the key jewelry accessory this season.  And have fun with all this!  Now’s the time to hit the antique malls, eBay or mother’s jewelry box to find some vintage pieces that should be brought out and enjoyed again.    Elle magazine quotes jewelry designer Fred Leighton as saying that “the trick to not looking like a granny in her dotage” in wearing brooches “is to wear not one but two or three mismatched brooches.”  Similarly, multiple necklaces are becoming de rigeur.  Mix it up!   Another trend reported in Elle that translates well to women of all figures is the addition of charms, not only to bracelets, necklaces, earrings and pins, but also attached to handbags in “playful irreverence.”  I do urge some caution in this trend, as it can look a bit “junior high school” if carried too far.  It’s fun, but it’s not an authoritative look.  Thank about the message you’re trying to convey in your clothing when you dress.  Vary your look depending upon the occasion.   So Cynthia, you ask, my wardrobe is mostly black, that chic, slimming color I’ve always loved, along with some brights.  How do I incorporate the muted shades of fall 2004 into that wardrobe?   My suggestion is that you start with your natural hair color or your eye color.  Wearing tones that pick up the shades of your hair or eyes will always be flattering because it reflects the colors of you.  If you have brown hair or brown eyes, pick up warm cocoa shades; go for caramels if you’re a blonde.  If you’re a redhead having problems finding your shade translated into apparel, then look to your eye color.  For example, the muted greens featured this autumn work beautifully for women with green eyes.    You can introduce new colors into your wardrobe by various methods.  One method is to use one statement-making piece, like a satchel, silk blouse or jacket to wear with your black basics.  One significant item of clothing or a large accessory can allow you to introduce a new color with confidence.   Another approach is more subtle:  Use smaller multiple doses of one color.  Classic image consulting principles will tell you to use three incidents of a color for maximum impact – as for example, shoes, belt and watch strap, or earrings, bracelet and ring all in the same color or color family.  The disadvantage (or advantage, depending upon your point of view) is that this requires a great deal of shopping around for just the perfect color.  Whenever possible, have the garment or accessory you’re trying to match in your possession when you shop.      And of course one item of clothing that you absolutely love can be the core of your entire wardrobe.  A gorgeous patterned shawl picking up colors of green, caramel and brown accented with black would provide extensive options for adding items to your wardrobe in any of the colors of the shawl.  A beautiful tweed jacket could fill the central role as well.    Finally, don’t forget the impact of well-chosen jewelry.  Go for drama this autumn, and don’t be surprised if your conversation pieces trigger real conversations.  Be confident in your choices and let yourself shine!           GEMS FROM THE JEWELRY COUNSELOR July 2004   Insider Scoops from the Jewelry Industry, and Inspiration from the Tony Awards   This past month, I had the privilege of attending the JCK Show in Las Vegas – the world’s largest trade show for the jewelry industry.  From around the world, the designers and manufacturers show their wares, and magnificent wares they are!      One highlight of the show for me is the annual presentation by Carrie Soucy, Fashion Editor for the JCK Group, the sponsoring organization, speaking to the industry on trends in apparel and jewels for the upcoming fall and winter season.  Let me share with you and elaborate upon some key points I gleaned from her presentation.    This fall, colors are focused along two tracks: on the one hand, rich warm-toned neutrals in such delicious colors as cocoa, caramel and gold; on the other, the spectrum of cooler colors centering on violets and purples.  Think rich, deep colors this fall.    Feminine detailing in clothing, and the return of the tailored lady’s suit in particular, is bringing with it renewed interest in the sweet, pretty details we saw in jewelry for the spring and summer.  Motifs such as ribbons and bows, hearts and flowers continue to enchant us. Piles of pearls a la Coco Chanel remain an important trend.  Let me add my observation that the transition to fall clothing calls for jewelry on a slightly larger scale and with a bit more presence to offset the richer, heavier textures of fall and winter fabrics.      Ms. Soucy confirmed what I noted in a recent column:  the chandelier moment in earrings has passed.  To stay current with the latest fashions, retire the chandeliers and replace them with more linear looks.  However, I recommend that, if you have a wide face, you consider using instead earrings with some width to them, such as large non-dangling earrings that cover the earlobes and draw the eye upward.    In bracelets, open-work designs, such as lattice design cuffs, are popular.  Peeks of skin through the designs are part of the emphasis on coy femininity.    With high, detailed necklines of sweaters, blouses and jackets back in vogue, your short necklaces will have a chance to rest for a while.  Substantial pendant necklaces and multiple strands of pearls will give you that additional touch of embellishment around your neck.   Ms. Soucy confirmed what so many American fashion magazines have declared --  this is “The Year of the Brooch.”  As she noted, some designers are accessorizing every outfit with a brooch.  If you haven’t yet acquired one, or even better, a grouping of compatible designs, don’t forget that you may be able to raid your mother’s or grandmother’s jewelry box to find something that is not only chic but also has sentimental value.  Look for brooches with presence; they can be conversation pieces with plenty of personality.  And remember, think creatively in how you wear them.    If you’re lucky enough to own a real or faux fur muff, scarf or hat, this is the year to enjoy it.  These elegant accessories provide additional places to pin those brooches too.  Luxe accessories are key to the rich look of fall/winter 2004.    Finally, the use of mixed media in designs continues to be a key trend.  Thus, combining diamonds with sterling silver, leather with pearls, and woods with gemstones are among the effects designers are pursuing.  This is the New Guard approach to fashion, the countervailing trend I described in my last column, which approach has a distinctive youth-driven edginess.    *  *  *    Speaking of media, I do wish the Tony Awards received more coverage in the main-stream press, as there is a much wider range of body shapes and sizes seen on the stage than on the big screen.  Beautiful, stylish, talented women and men come in all shapes and sizes, and the Tony Awards production celebrates their talent and diversity.   Hugh Jackman was the star of the show, of course, and his beautiful wife Deborra-Lee Furness, stunning in her black dress with white wrap and oversize pendant necklace featuring an elaborate design in diamonds, matched him in the glamour quotient.    Wraps and shawls were creatively used by several style-setters at the evening’s festivities.  Wraps and shawls are wonderful accessories – they can add color or sparkle, soften the look of a black dress, add a little coverage where desired, and of course dial up the drama of an entrance.    Phylicia Rashad was the epitome of elegance in her black vee-neck dress with a festive silvery shawl draped over her left shoulder.  She also wore a substantial short necklace of what appeared to be black pearls set in diamonds, along with matching earrings and some major bling on her fingers.   Another stunning use of a wrap was seen by Carole Bayer Sager, the talented songwriter, who channeled Elizabeth Taylor with her dramatic black hairstyle.  She wore the most luscious strapless dress of a coral pink print, with a soft coral chiffon-like wrap draped over her right shoulder, plus a wide diamond cuff and diamond earrings.    I have searched the Web without success for good full-length photographs of the many full-figured celebrities in attendance, including Margo Martindale from “Cat on a Hot Tin Roof”, who wore a black sparkly dress with a black over-jacket and diamond earrings; Capathia Jenkins of “Caroline, or Change”, who wore a classic diamond necklace to set off the elaborately designed collar and décolletage of her black gown; Carly Jibson, the new lead in “Hairspray”, who wore a  multi-color dress with halter straps; Barbara Cook of “Barbara Cook’s Broadway”, who accessorized her classic black dress with a necklace consisting of seven strands of light-colored beads like an Egyptian collar surrounding her face; and Ann Harada from “Avenue Q” who wore a bright red print robe as her costume in the production number from that show and sexy red satin in the audience.  It was fun to see Marissa Jaret Winokur, former star of “Hairspray”, radiant in a black satin dress with cut-out detailing on the straps, with what looked to be a black fur shrug and her handsome boyfriend on her arm.    A final note:  What a pity that style maven Sarah Jessica Parker wore a dress, beautiful as it was, that didn’t fit her correctly, causing her to pass up the opportunity to dance with Mr. Jackman on stage because, as she verbalized to the world, she was afraid the dress would fall down.  There’s an important lesson here – always, always wear something that fits, so when the opportunity to dance with someone like Hugh Jackman comes along, you’re ready!    Let me leave you paraphrasing a line from one of my favorite songs . . if you’ve got the choice to sit it out or dance, I hope you dance!   GEMS FROM THE JEWELRY COUNSELOR June 2004   Springtime 2004   Spring, the season of renewal, has arrived!  Perhaps because there is so much that is somber in the news, the human spirit seeks relief and strives for a sense of balance.  As the days get longer and beckon us to come out and play, we instinctively reach for the bright, cheerful colors that are giving character to some of the most delightful fashions and accessories seen in years.  It’s downright healthy to let the playful colors and prints raise our spirits.    Shoes and handbags are candy-colored, and accessories are fun again.   The mid-century influence of styles from the 1940’s, 50’s and 60’s is coming on strong.  Bring on the vintage brooches and beads, dress clips and bejeweled sandals.  We are so very ready for spring!   The lightness of colors and fabrics that accompany warmer weather are the bellwether of a new lighthearted direction in style.       The June 2004 issue of Glamour magazine captures the phenomenon well, identifying two schools of thought in dress:  On one hand, the classic and always chic look of the Old Guard, representing old Hollywood elegance so beautifully represented at this year’s Academy Awards; on the other hand, the whimsical, playful, rule-breaking approach of the New Guard, spearheaded by young actresses such as Maggie Gyllenhaal, Julia Stiles and Kirsten Dunst, who are shaking up fashion expectations with their fearless mixes of shapes, colors, patterns and textures.    Uma Thurman was a brave harbinger of the New Guard style at the 2004 Oscars in her interesting, elaborate and almost universally panned ribbon-tied white shepherdess dress by Christian Lacroix.  Some fashion commentators correctly identified the problem:  There was so much going on with the trim on her dress and her elaborate accessories that they detracted from her lovely face and form.     The New Guard’s “more is more” approach to accessories is a theme that we’ll see carried over into 2004’s fall fashions, and it’s time to train the eye to enjoy the delight of expressing one’s personality through unique accessorization and embellishment.  I predict we’ll be seeing more individualized statements of style, carried out with shoes, hosiery, handbags, and, of course, all manner of jewelry, as contrasted with the formula approach of the elegant Old Guard look.  Watch for outsized brooches and pendants, statement bracelets and enormous gemstones, real or faux, not only set into rings, but also adorning wrists and bodices.  The June 2004 issue of W magazine contains some breathtaking examples.   In their June 2004 issue, the editors of Harper’s Bazaar describe the fall fashion shows as an embarrassment of riches, with embellishment being the buzzword.  “Lay it on thick,” their editors advise; “Too much is never enough.”  Even in observing the opulent combinations of sequins plus fur or beads plus brooches seen in the fall fashion shows, Bazaar notes that understated silhouettes keep the look refined.      If and when you start adapting this lavish approach to accessorization, please keep in mind that the point of it all should be to flatter you, to bring out your best features.  Don’t ever wear a style just because it’s the latest trend unless it also helps you look your best.      Two trends to be somewhat cautious about are the resurgence of flat shoes and tiny bags.  The May 2004 issue of Allure magazine contains an excellent feature article providing pointers on how best to wear flats, which, the author points out, “can look young and sweet, or old and frumpy” depending upon “that vague concept of proportion.”  If you have heavy legs, consider wearing at least a half-inch Sabrina heel for a more elongating look.  And keep your handbags in proportion to your apparent body size.  A tiny bag can make a full-figured woman look disproportionately larger than she is.  A medium-sized bag will be more flattering.  Accessorization isn’t just for women any more.  Men have embraced both bling-bling and other less ostentatious jewelry in a big way these past few years, spearheaded by sports personalities and hip-hop artists.  Some have gone beyond gold and diamonds – Andre 3000 famously wears pearl bracelets in his photo on the back cover of the Outkast CD ”Speakerboxxx/The Love Below.”  Recall back to the 2001 Academy Awards, when Russell Crowe, who won the award for Best Actor, wore his late grandfather’s MBE (Member of the British Empire) medal, awarded to him by the Queen of England for his work as a photographer during World War II.  How dashing Crowe looked! Will men’s fashion experimentation go beyond jewelry and medals?  Reuters news agency reports that Brad Pitt is predicting and proclaiming that men will be wearing skirts by the summer of 2005, due in large part to the influence of the Greek fashions portrayed in the new movie “Troy” which features some gorgeous male gams.  The Costume Institute at New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art held an exhibition entitled “Bravehearts:  Men in Skirts” sponsored by French designer Jean-Paul Gaultier, which ran in November 2003 through February of this year.  And let’s not forget Sting in his kilt at the 2004 Grammy Awards, Sean Connery in traditional kilts on various occasions, Mel Gibson in “Braveheart” and Russell Crowe in “Gladiator”!  Will our everyday heroes pick up the look?  Ah, spring. . . the season of renewal.  Somehow, in the spring, anything seems possible.       GEMS FROM THE JEWELRY COUNSELOR May 2004   COLOR AND DELIGHT:  A SNAPSHOT OF JEWELRY TRENDS FOR SPRING/SUMMER 2004   There’s something so refreshing and uplifting about the colors and textures of spring and summer.  Whether the memories of digging out from the snow are still fresh or whether you are blessed with mild weather all year round, bringing out the pretty pastels and happy bright colors are a joy at the end of the winter season.    Spring 2004 has brought us a particularly luscious palette of colors, making many of us impatient to shed the darker, more somber shades coloring our winter apparel.  Along with some of the most delectable handbags and shoes in recent memory, jewelry seems re-energized this season. Among the notable trends in jewelry are the following:   Yellow Gold   Yellow gold is back and has never been more beautiful.  Look for a wide range of styles to suit every taste --  from bold, thick links to wispy strands as light as spun sugar, and from classic pieces of significant presence to charming little accents of gleaming high-polish metal with a brighter effect than a white metal alone can achieve.  Popular shapes include discs, coins and clever cutout designs.  Precious golden lockets are a sentimental favorite.  The April 2004 issue of Allure magazine contains a beautiful montage of photographs demonstrating the range of styles available and proclaims “golden is the rule for spring bracelets and necklaces.”   After the long reign of white metals, which have been highly popular since they came to the forefront with the minimalist styles of the 90’s, the return of yellow gold is especially welcomed by those with warmer complexions (more peach than pink).  Finally you can wear the color of metal most flattering to you and be trendy again at the same time.  (I just love when that happens!)    If your skin is cool-toned and you gravitate toward white metals such as platinum, white gold and sterling silver, consider adding pieces with mixed yellow and white metals to incorporate this trend.    1950’s-Inspired Ladylike Accessories   To complement the demure, ladylike fashions that are replacing the bareness of recent years’ styles, designers are incorporating a number of charming retro trends in jewelry from the so-called “Mid-Century” period.    My personal favorite is the large brooches – no shrinking violets these, they are true conversation pieces with lots of impact.  Vogue magazine believes so strongly in brooches that, in its May 2004 issue, “statement brooches” are at the very top of the list for revamping a working wardrobe. In choosing a brooch, as stated in Vogue,  “Make it important in size, dazzling in rhinestones or diamonds – and pin it with finesse on a lapel, at the shoulder or the jut of the hip.”  The scale of these brooches makes them perfect for the curvy woman.    What makes brooches modern is how they are used.  Today, they are worn creatively not only on the lapels of coats and jackets, but also at the décolletage, waist, hip, shoulder or wrist, in the hair, or even pinned to a purse or a boot.  No other item of jewelry gives the wearer so much versatility.    Brooches convey personality beautifully.  Ribbons, flowers and feather motifs are decidedly feminine and pretty, for example; starbursts and geometric designs are more dramatic and authoritative.     Former Secretary of State Madeleine Albright, a full-figured woman, used brooches as tools of diplomacy, conveying subtle messages through her choices of such motifs as snakes, rockets and eagles.  As reported in the April 2004 issue of Town & Country, at this year’s Jewelry Information Center’s Gem Awards, at which she presented an award to Cartier, Ms. Albright explained that she used her choice of brooches “to set the tone of her meetings with world leaders.”  Consider what brooches can do for you!   Necklaces are undergoing changes this season.  In contrast to the delicate beads or gemstones spaced along thin chains ubiquitous in recent years, the newer look is that of chunky beads in longer lengths worn singly, as seen in recent ads for Prada, or in multiples.  These necklaces, reminiscent of styles popular in the 1950’s, have more density and volume than what has been trendy in recent years.  They often work well for the full-figured woman, especially if she has large features.  Be cautious about the very long necklaces, however, if you have a high, full bust – the necklace should not swing off the shelf of your bustline or, worse, accidentally hook around a breast.  Wear the necklace a bit shorter to avoid that unfortunate effect.       Along with beads, pearls, the 1950’s standard of elegance, are back again, often worn in multiples a la Coco Chanel.  At the 2004 Golden Globes, Maria Bello wore what appeared to be dozens of strands of white beads wrapped around her neck and layered down the front of the plunging neckline of her satin gown.  Notice, however, that the strands of her necklaces lay in graduated lengths and were not a tangle of competing lengths and styles.  In layering necklaces, maintain common themes of color and scale and assess whether the necklaces produce a visual line flattering to your face and form.  The eye doesn’t like to be confused.  If the eye doesn’t know where to look, pare down the strands.      1960’s-Inspired Plastics and Pendants   1960’s-inspired plastics are back big-time too – especially seen in wide bangle bracelets worn in multiples on slender arms.  This trend has been lingering around the borders for several years now.  Bring on the Bakelite!      Another trend from the 60’s worth revisiting is the significant pendant worn on a substantial chain, as seen in the Bulgari jewels featured on the cover of the May 2004 issue of Elle magazine.  Are peace symbols and astrological signs next?    Shells as Adornment   Is it just coincidence that archaeologists have recently unearthed in South Africa the oldest known jewelry on earth, a set of perforated seashell beads?  Some 75,000 years ago, our Stone Age ancestors apparently embraced the symbolic power of accessories.   This season, seashell necklaces, bracelets and earrings are back again, adding a fresh and fun touch to casual wear.  Elle magazine features some interesting designer versions in its May 2004 issue.  Keep your eyes open for wonderful vintage pieces too, that tend to be larger and more elaborate than the simple strands you’ll typically find at tourist locations.  Be aware that shells are fragile and expect some breakage, especially on bracelets and longer necklaces that are likely to bump into hard surfaces.    Before You Head Into the Water   One final note of caution – no, this isn’t about sharks and sea creatures!  Too often in fashion spreads we see models in swimsuits accessorized with jewelry, posing in the water of a swimming pool or ocean.  Be aware that chlorine and salt can be very bad for your jewelry.   In particular, do not wear gold jewelry into a swimming pool containing chlorine – the alloys with which pure gold is combined to create 18 karat, 14 karat, or other karatage gold can become damaged and pitted.    Similarly, keep suntan lotions and sunscreen well away from your jewelry.  Metals and plastics both can be affected by chemical reactions with the active ingredients in these products.      Take good care of your jewelry, and it will keep you looking good!  Happy spring! GEMS FROM THE JEWELRY COUNSELOR April 2004    THE ACADEMY AWARDS 2004   So many awards shows, so little column space!  Lessons can be gleaned from the stars’ dresses and accessories choices at every show, but none has the nonstop glamour of the Academy Awards.    Old Hollywood glamour was the order of the day at the 2004 Academy Awards.  Classic retro styles in dresses, accessories and hairstyles reigned.  Colors were soft and subdued, with white, nude and pastel shades predominating, although there were notable exceptions, such as Catherine Zeta-Jones’s elegant Versace gown in her signature fire engine red.  Fashion critics found little to criticize, and some resorted to moaning that the stars had made boringly safe choices. The Jewelry Counselor disagrees with those curmudgeons.  Elegance is always in style, and don’t let anyone tell you otherwise!   Classic gowns call for classic jewelry, and the stars didn’t disappoint, with diamonds the overwhelming choice to adorn ears, wrists, necks and fingers.  Let’s look at the trends in jewelry:   Princess-length necklaces that sit at the base of the throat were the design of choice for Renee Zellweger, who wore a vintage leaf-patterned diamond necklace by Cartier, and Scarlett Johansson, who reportedly detached the diamond drop from her De Beers necklace to create a classic circlet of staggered multi-shape diamonds.    The princess length necklace is flattering to almost everyone, and is most effective when the necklace lies at least as wide as the widest part of the face.  In contrast, a true choker, such as the extraordinary green diamond necklace with its off-center flower motif custom-made for Nicole Kidman by  Bulgari, requires a long, slender neck and can be particularly difficult to wear for those with wide jawlines and round or square faces.    Graceful diamond link bracelets worn singly rather than in multiples added sparkle to many wrists.  Annie Lennox wore a vintage Van Cleef & Arpels bracelet, and Uma Thurman, Keisha Castle-Hughes and Renee Zellweger too chose to wear versions of this classic style.  Exceptions included Charlize Theron, who wore a Chopard diamond cuff in a geometric grid design, and Jennifer Garner, who wore multiple yellow gold Fred Leighton bracelets, the warmer metal color required by the intense tangerine color of her vintage Valentino dress.  Remember that wide cuff bracelets often hit right at about hip level and can draw attention there. The softer line of a link bracelet is more universally flattering.  The bracelet should be long enough to drape slightly over the hand.   In earrings – the single most important accessory to bring attention to the face – we find the key trend that emerged in jewelry at the 2004 Academy Awards: long linear earrings, their light, clean, thin lines replacing the heavy, elaborate, wide designs of chandelier earrings that reigned last year. The long linear shape was selected by a bevy of celebrities, including Catherine Zeta-Jones in Fred Leighton, Julia Roberts in Cathy Waterman, and Keisha Castle-Hughes whose long earrings ended in pink pearls that danced as she moved.  Perhaps no one wore this style more elegantly than Best Actress winner Charlize Theron, whose Chopard long linear drop earrings ended in dazzling starbursts of diamonds.    Be cautious in embracing the long linear style, however.  It is extremely unflattering to anyone with a wide face because the thin lines will serve to emphasize its width.  In addition, just as with chandelier earrings, a long slender neck is a prerequisite.    Notice how Jennifer Garner wore a wider, more dimensional version of long linear earrings – a style that will be flattering on most women with wider faces.  Falling from five-petal diamond floral designs at her earlobes, graceful diamond-encrusted floral drops held large colorless crystals, giving the earrings size and presence.  These diamond and crystal drops by Fred Leighton accomplished an entirely different effect for Ms. Garner – they extended the line of her somewhat prominent ears, giving her face more of an overall oval shape.   Another standout for her dimensional version of long earrings was Julianne Moore.  Her ultra-feminine earrings by Fred Leighton looked like a multi-strand version of linear earrings, with three delicate strands of diamonds ending in curved decorative motifs.  The earrings were exceptionally flattering on Ms. Moore because the overall shape of the earrings was reminiscent of the shape of her nose, and the bottom curve of the earrings repeated both the end of her nose and the shape of her jawline and mirrored her delicately arched eyebrows.  Choose jewelry that repeats the shape and size of your favorite feature and be prepared for the oohs and aahs.    Short drop earrings were a second popular alternative to chandelier earrings.   Naomi Watts chose simple but substantial pear-shaped diamond drops; Patricia Clarkson’s diamond drops were large round stones.  Uma Thurman, Jada Pinkett Smith  and Sofia Coppola also chose short drop earrings.    Note the third alternative in adornment to the ears – the choice to wear no earrings at all.  Because earrings bring sparkle to the face, this choice is optimal only when the dress or the necklace (or both!) demand full attention.  With Nicole Kidman’s magnificent green diamond necklace, earrings would have been superfluous.  Diane Lane wore a vintage Azzaro gown with a wide crystal collar that eliminated any need for further adornment near the face.  Renee Zellweger also forewent earrings, her beautiful sculptural white gown by Carolina Herrera and diamond necklace providing sufficient drama.      Finally, no matter what style of gown or how much bling is worn elsewhere on the person, a substantial and stunning ring is a beautiful finishing touch to an evening ensemble and a look that virtually everyone can wear.  What’s new is the choice to wear the ring on the index finger, as seen on Renee Zellweger, Diane Lane and Jennifer Garner.   As you prepare for your own moments in the spotlight this spring, banish last year’s over-accessorized, over-exposed looks.  Think classic curvy glamour, from curls and waves in your hair to sophisticated, elegantly designed jewelry – and revel in the admiring glances.     GEMS FROM THE JEWELRY COUNSELOR March 2004     Some Lessons from the 2004 Golden Globes from The Jewelry Counselor   The season of awards shows is upon us!   It’s time to cast our votes for those celebrities deserving of awards for artistic merit in style.  What the celebrities choose to wear will do much to determine the fashion trends to watch and wear this year.    Some fashions work for the curvy woman, and some don’t.   (Frankly, there’s a lot of stuff seen on the red carpet that isn’t flattering even to the stars who are apparently talked into wearing it.)   Since accessorization is “what separates us from the animals,” to paraphrase my favorite character in Steel Magnolias, let’s take a look at what jewelry and accessories some popular celebrities are wearing and analyze which ones translate to styles that flatter the curvy woman.  With a quick change of accessories, any of us can update our look and make the most of our own unique beauty.   I’ll talk about not just which styles work, but  why.  This isn’t about my personal taste or style – this is applying well-established principles of image consulting, which, at their essence, are principles of art.  This is about line and proportion, about drawing the eye to the features one wants to highlight.   And so, without more ado… here, direct from the press coverage of the 2004 Golden Globes, are the premier Gems from The Jewelry Counselor!   The only curvy woman who received extensive press coverage at this year’s Golden Globes, Queen Latifah looked like a faerie princess in a pink chiffon dress with stole by Bradley Bayou for Halston. The generous length of her wrap gave her plenty of fabric to drape seductively around her. Note also the perfect length of her diamond necklace by Chopard, which sat at the base of her throat. You’ll see that the necklace itself was not huge and chunky, but rather corresponded to the size of the features of her face as well as the delicate look of her ensemble. The effect: breathtaking! Renee Zellweger wore a pair of exquisite vintage Cartier sapphire and diamond brooches in the style of 1940’s dress clips, emphasizing the horizontal line of her halter-neckline blue satin Carolina Herrera dress. If you like this style, be mindful that such horizontal emphasis at the bustline works best on a less voluptuous figure. Using dress clips or brooches to highlight a curved sweetheart neckline would generally be a better choice for a woman with an hourglass figure, but optimal placement of brooches for the curvy woman is higher and closer to the face. Jamie Lee Curtis wore a Richard Tyler ensemble made ravishing with the addition of a large, elaborate filigree snowflake necklace that brought sparkle to her face. The necklace is of a scale that would work well on almost any curvy woman, so long as it has the length to sit properly at the base of the neck. Scarlett Johansson wore a sexy Stella McCartney corset dress, but I’m much more interested for our purposes in her magnificent diamond earrings and bracelet, both by De Beers. Note that her wildflower earrings were substantial, curved upwards and covered her earlobes. (Thankfully, the stranglehold of chandelier earrings, which never worked for women with less than swanlike necks, is over.) The effect: the viewer’s eye goes up, rather than down to the jawline and neck. This is a look that works beautifully for women with wide round or square jaws and short necks, and distracts from a double chin. Ms. Johansson also wore a graceful bracelet of a corresponding floral motif that curved softly below her wrist – another great look for a curvy woman. Nicole Kidman’s choice at this year’s Golden Globes is the perfect example of how NOT to mix metals. The gold mesh Boucheron headband she wore reportedly because she wanted to avoid heavy earrings that hurt her ears (she has been known to wear massive chandelier earrings), was an interesting choice, but its orangey yellow color clashed with the much softer gold pailettes of her dress by Tom Ford for YSL Rive Gauche.  Remember to repeat the colors of your metals in your ensemble so your efforts don’t look like an afterthought.  If you’re shopping for accessories, bring your dress or a sample of its fabric along.  A footnote here – Nicole’s metallic peep-toe shoes didn’t match the color of her dress either, but current fashion thinking is that matching shoe color to dress color is too bridesmaid, too matchy-matchy. Sarah Jessica Parker has exemplified this approach over the latest several red carpet events, and accessorized her sparkly Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel Couture charcoal grey dress with teal green satin pumps. Note also Ms. Parker’s beautiful use of hair jewelry to draw the eye up to her face. And speaking of shoes, both Sarah Jessica and Nicole exemplified another trend we’ll be seeing more often: Vogue magazine announced in its February ‘04 issue that fashion is finally moving on from the strappy stiletto sandal. Halleluia for happier feet! We curvy women want to be fashion-current, and those strappy stilettos just didn’t provide enough of a visual base for most of us, especially those of us not blessed with gorgeous gams. Watch for sexy new looks in shoes that have more substance to them.   A final note….   Some of the worst fashion advice I’ve seen for the full-figured woman appears in the February 2004 issue of Ladies’ Home Journal magazine, which suggests that wearing four layers on the upper body (turtleneck under a blouse under a v-neck cardigan under a jacket), is somehow a flattering look on a curvy woman –  and, oh yes, that ensemble is to be worn with red slacks, no less.  Then there is the stretchy white miniskirt worn with black opaque tights, again with a sweater plus cardigan plus jacket … oh dear, oh dear, oh dear….  Let’s hope that this misguided advice is an aberration for this well-loved publication.  For consistently appropriate fashion advice, my curvy friends, please look to VenusDivas.com.     GEMS FROM THE JEWELRY COUNSELOR Fall/Winter 2003: Focus Dramatic Earrings Long, dramatic dangling earrings are the single most important trend in jewelry for fall/winter 2003, and earrings in multi-layered chandelier designs are especially popular choices. Seen in endless variations on celebrities’ ears at recent awards shows, chandelier and other oversize long earrings set with sparkling gemstones can add a delightful dose of glamour to an elegant evening ensemble. The movement of the earrings and the glitter of the stones definitely catch the eye. Shoulder-duster earrings, like choker-style necklaces, generally are most flattering on someone with a long neck. However, don’t rule out dramatic earrings for yourself just because you weren’t blessed with a neck like Audrey Hepburn’s -- there are flattering options, whatever the shape and size of your face and features. What shapes and sizes of longer earrings will work best for you? Here are a few tips to help you choose your most flattering options. First, keep in mind that the eye is drawn to the point at which dangling earrings end, which is the place of the most movement. If the earrings fall below your jawline, they will draw attention down to your neck. This is not the best choice for someone with a double chin or sun-damaged skin on the neck. The effect is especially pronounced when the chandelier earrings have a strong horizontal base, such as seen in pagoda-shaped designs. A design that does not widen at the bottom has less of a pronounced edge, and for many women, this will be more flattering. Earrings that fall at or above your jawline, however, bring attention to your face. The length of earrings you can wear for most flattering effect is largely determined by the size and placement of your ears – the higher your earlobes lie relative to your jaw, the longer the earrings that you can and should wear. Second, evaluate the top of the earrings’ design. If the earrings fall from a wire or shepherd’s hook, the eye is drawn downward to a point below your ears, and if you have a square jaw or a round face, the width of the lower part of your face will be emphasized. More universally flattering designs cover some portion of the earlobes. The larger your earlobes, the more substantial the top of the earrings should be for optimal flattery. Third, use the size of your facial features to gauge the optimal size and amount of detail in the earrings you select. The more delicate your features, the more flattering a design incorporating fine lines and tiny details will look. If you have average to large features, opt for earrings that have some width and substance to the design. Fourth, evaluate whether the earrings mirror any of your features, most commonly the length and shape of your nose or ears, and, if so, whether that is a feature that you wish to highlight. Earrings of identical shape and size to your nose, for instance, will bring emphasis to your nose. Also watch for design details that relate to other shapes and details of your face. You can use details to highlight your best features, like the curve of your mouth or the color of your eyes. For example, if you have blue eyes, blue sapphires or blue topaz may make your eyes look bigger and brighter. Finally, in selecting dramatic earrings, take into consideration the necklines and hairstyles you prefer to wear on dress-up occasions. Chandeliers and other long dangling earrings look best with styles of apparel with simpler, lower necklines that do not have a lot of detail near the face. If your long hair is your glory and you prefer to wear it down, simpler designs may work better peeping out from under your hair and also may present less risk of catching and getting tangled in your locks. But don’t restrict yourself to wearing your favorite dramatic earrings only on special occasions. Allow yourself some liberties with style. As the celebrities do, wear your dramatic earrings even with jeans or casual attire and always with a bit of attitude. I hope you will find these tips helpful in selecting dramatic earrings that look great on you. When you find earrings that flatter and make you feel terrific, give yourself plenty of occasion to wear them, and enjoy the wonderful way they light up your face.   August/September 2005: Seven Tips for Finding the Potential in Your Wardrobe – and in Yourself! June/July 2005: How to Use the Latest Trends to Reveal the Real You April/May 2005: Oscars, Oscars 2005 – A Study in Repetition February/March 2005: Grammy Awards Spin Gold and Platinum January 2005: Golden Globes a Dazzling Feast of Color December 2004: Love Actually November 2004: Curves and Coziness for Autumn October 2004: The 2004 Primetime Emmy Awards September 2004: Golden Days of Self-Expression August 2004: Fall 2004: Complex Textures, Lavish Embellishments July 2004: Insider Scoops from the Jewelry Industry, and Inspiration from the Tony Awards June 2004: Springtime 2004 May 2004: Color and Delight: A Snapshot of Jewelry Trends for Spring/Summer 2004 April 2004: The Academy Awards 2004 March 2004: Some Lessons from the 2004 Golden Globes from The Jewelry Counselor Fall/Winter 2003: Focus Dramatic Earrings back ©Cynthia Sliwa 2003-2008 All Rights Reserved Website Design by Susi Galloway 4385