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THE
JEWELRY COUNSELOR Q&A
I’m
thrilled with my new 14 karat gold bracelet with gemstone accents,
and look forward to the day I can pass it on as an heirloom. How do
I keep it looking its best?
I
love reading about jewelry, but am confused about the term karat,
which I see sometimes spelled with a k and sometimes spelled with
a c. What’s the difference?
I
am a fan of the look of dramatic earrings, as seen on the red carpet,
but I don’t want to call attention to the fullness of my neck
and wide jaw. I love my full lips, however, and like to play them
up for holiday parties with red lipstick. Any suggestions on the right
earrings for me?
I
notice that a lot of jewelry sold on the web is 18 karat gold, and
I’ve even come across 22 karat gold. Is 18 karat or 22 karat
gold better than 14 karat gold?
I’m
getting married in the fall of 2004 and haven’t yet chosen my
wedding gown, although I know I want a very traditional look. I’m
thrilled with my engagement ring, and my fiancé and I have
already selected our wedding bands. Can you give me some pointers
on wearing jewelry on my wedding day?
Q:
I’m thrilled with my new 14 karat gold
bracelet with gemstone accents, and look forward to the day I can
pass it on as an heirloom. How do I keep it looking its best?
A:
A few simple steps will help keep your fine jewelry looking fine.
Store your jewelry items in their original boxes or in soft chamois
or cotton bags. Put your jewelry on only after you’ve applied
perfume or hairspray, and never ever wear gold jewelry in a swimming
pool or hot tub or while using bleach or any household cleanser that
contains chlorine, since chlorine can cause surface pitting of the
alloys in gold jewelry. Over time, hand and body lotion, makeup, perfume,
hairspray and natural body oils will build up and form a residue on
metal and gemstones. Cleaning your jewelry will keep it shiny and
sparkling. Therefore, periodically soak your fine jewelry in a mild
soap and water solution and very gently scrub it with a soft toothbrush,
giving special attention to any crevices or design details and to
the prongs or bevels that hold the gemstones. Rinse in cool, clear
water (but never over an open drain!) and pat dry with a soft cloth.
Once a year, take your fine jewelry to a professional jeweler for
a steam cleaning. Treat your items of fine jewelry like the precious
articles they are, and they will provide many, many years of delight
to you and your heirs.
Q: I
love reading about jewelry, but am confused about the term karat,
which I see sometimes spelled with a k and sometimes spelled with
a c. What’s the difference?
A:
Carat with a c refers to the weight of a diamond or
other gemstone. The term originates from the days when gemstones were
weighed in Oriental souks or bazaars on a scale with gemstones on
one side, carob beans on the other. Gemstones of identical size will
vary by carat depending upon the stone because the density and therefore
the weight of different gemstones varies—for example, rubies
are denser and heavier than diamonds, so a 1 carat ruby will be smaller
than a 1 carat diamond. Karat with a k is a measure not of weight,
but of purity, when referring to the gold content in a piece of jewelry.
Pure gold is 24 karats; 14 karat gold is 14 parts pure gold and 10
parts alloy, such as silver or copper, which adds strength to the
piece and which also can be used to change the color, resulting in
rose gold, green gold, or white gold.
Q:
I am a fan of the look of dramatic earrings, as seen on the red carpet,
but I don’t want to call attention to the fullness of my neck
and wide jaw. I love my full lips, however, and like to play them
up for holiday parties with red lipstick. Any suggestions on the right
earrings for me?
A:
Enjoy the sexy drama of grand earrings, but avoid
pagodas and other styles that are broadest at the base, which will
draw attention to the features you’d like to play down. Choose
earrings that are longer than they are wide, but, for the most flattering
effect, choose styles that end above your jawline. Soft curves in
the design of your earrings will bring attention to the curves of
your lips. To draw further attention to your luscious red lips, mirror
your lipstick shade with rich, red gemstones such as ruby and garnet.
You’ll be the belle of the ball! It’s up to you whether
to be naughty or nice. . . .
Q:
I notice that a lot of jewelry sold on the web is 18 karat gold, and
I’ve even come across 22 karat gold. Is 18 karat or 22 karat
gold better than 14 karat gold?
A:
It’s a matter of personal preference. Except
for pure gold, which is 24 karat, other karatage of gold reflects
a mixture of pure gold plus an alloy such as silver or copper.
To be labeled 18 karat, the metal must be 18 parts pure gold and 6
parts alloy such as silver or copper, whereas 14 karat gold is 14
parts pure gold and 10 parts alloy. The alloys add strength and durability
to the metal and may also affect its color. 18 karat gold is actually
softer and slightly less durable than 14 karat gold. 18 karat is the
standard in Europe; 14 karat, the standard in the U.S. is not only
durable, but also budget friendly.
Gold of 22 karats
or higher is generally considered too soft to wear on an everyday
basis. Other parts of the world have long embraced the warmth and
richness of higher karat gold, which is particularly appropriate for
gold jewelry with an exotic feel and textural interest such as hammering
or granulation. Because of their high gold content, 22 and 24 karat
gold pieces are particularly expensive and because of their softness,
will scratch easily.
In my opinion,
from an aesthetic standpoint, and this is entirely a matter of personal
choice, 14 karat yellow gold has a softer, prettier color than 18
karat yellow gold and is easier to wear whether one has warmer or
cooler skin tones. For example, 14 karat yellow gold will be an easier
color transition to make for someone used to wearing silver, platinum
or white gold. In contrast, 18 karat yellow gold is warmer and more
yellow in color. Higher karatage gold, such as the 22 karat gold one
might purchase in Singapore or India, is even more yellow-orange in
color and is therefore harder to wear for someone with cool skin undertones.
One reason you
see quite a bit of 18 karat gold is that all the gold sold in Italy
is required by law to be 18 karat, and much of the gold jewelry produced
for sale in the United States is made in Italy. Apprecia Fine Jewelry
is made to your specifications in the United States.
Q:
I’m getting married in the fall of 2004 and haven’t yet
chosen my wedding gown, although I know I want a very traditional
look. I’m thrilled with my engagement ring, and my fiancé
and I have already selected our wedding bands. Can you give me some
pointers on wearing jewelry on my wedding day?
A:
All best wishes to you and your fiancé! What an exciting time
this is for you!
If you wear only
one item of jewelry at your wedding in addition to your engagement
and wedding rings, make it a pair of earrings in a flattering style
that will bring attention up to your radiant face. The sparkle of
diamonds or other gemstones and the soft glow of pearls are universally
lovely choices that will draw the eye up to your face.
Choose a style
of earrings that flatters your face shape and doesn’t overwhelm
your dress. If you like chandelier style earrings, for example, you
will probably want to keep the length of the drop to two inches or
less unless you have a long graceful neck. Generally, earrings that
cover your earlobes and do not extend beyond the line of your jaw
will be flattering choices. Single pearls or diamond studs are always
tasteful choices, but slightly larger earrings are often more flattering
on a full-figured woman.
Whenever possible,
select your wedding dress and headpiece first and then choose jewelry
consistent in scale and design with the ornamentation on those pieces.
However, if you plan to wear an heirloom item of jewelry that holds
precious memories – for example, your grandmother’s sapphire
brooch or your mother’s diamond necklace – make that item
your priority and shop for a wedding dress with a neckline and style
that will accommodate and not clash with the jewelry. Wear the jewelry
as you try on various styles.
Similarly, if
your fiancé plans to give you a wedding gift of jewelry that
he would like you to wear at your wedding, then, if at all possible,
plan your wedding dress around that jewelry. Even if you don’t
receive the gift until the eve of your wedding, it will be helpful
for you to know the length of a necklace or the dimensions of a brooch.
Keep in mind that
most antique and vintage necklaces were designed to fit smaller necks—sometimes
as small as 14 to 16 inches. It can be difficult to find an attractive
extender that is a good match to the necklace you are trying to lengthen,
so if you have short hair or plan to wear an up-do, you may need to
find a creative way to incorporate an heirloom necklace into your
wedding ensemble. For example, you may be able to incorporate the
necklace creatively into your headpiece. Similarly, bracelets, brooches
and even earrings can be pinned into your hair with dazzling effect.
Wishing you a beautiful wedding and much joy!
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